A Closer Look at The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel

Gold is one of the oldest ornaments that has been continuously used for its decorative purposes throughout human history. Thanks to its un-reactive nature, it is capable of maintaining its purity, which allows it to maintain a shiny and clear surface. It was therefore obvious that when the technology to make wrist watched became available, gold was going to be one of the materials that watch makers were going to choose for luxury watches. Its none-reactive nature means the watch components will not be affected by rust or corrosion, which degrades low quality watches with time. With that in mind, let us look at the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel, which is encased in red gold.

The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel

The black enamel model is the fourth one in a series of watches that Jaquet Droz rolled out as part of its Grande Seconde Moon editions. The others include the steel models, and they are all building on the brand’s past success. In particular, the black enamel model has been quite successful in the past, along with the gold and black wristwatches in general. This is the fourth model that has an elegant but modern black enamel, and cased in red gold stands out as a masterpiece design we all admire. Overall, if you were smitten by the beautiful design and detailed execution, they implemented on the moonphase complication, then you will definitely want to take a closer look at this watch.

The dial design is inspired by the figure 8, which then adds on the moon and date indication that does not interfere with its overall balanced design. The watch is an ode to the brand’s past with its figure eight dial, which that is become synonymous with the Grande Seconde watch collection. It has reinforced one of the accepted truths that the Grande Seconde family is one of the well-known and successful families. The dial design features an off-centered minutes and hours dial that also intersects the seconds sub-dial, which allows it to offer several possibilities when integrating the watch’s complication. The complications that can be integrated into this design include dual time, pointer date, and dead-beat second. These three can all be integrated in the much larger small seconds counter sub-dial, which is much larger, compared to its minutes and hours counterpart.

Jaquet Droz based the 2017 dial design on this iconic display whereby he used a combination of the pointer date and the moon phase. The combination allowed them to create three different versions, which are the red gold/ivory enamel, steel/black onyx dial, and the steel/opaline dial that featured in the Baselworld 2017. The addition of the Grand Feu with a black enamel design has now enlarged that collection. Its design evokes richness, warmth, and great contrast. The circles of a gold moon further enhance its design, making it catch the eye of anyone who tries to glance past it.

You will notice on scrutiny that the overall beauty of this watch comes from its unique layout that makes the moon and the indications appear well balanced. Instead of having an empty small seconds subdial, it has been used as a complications’ playing field. Moreover, it has a circular moon shape that allows for the display of a moon-phase indication that is arched without turning the design into an imperfect dial.

The movement in the Moon Black Enamel comprises of a v twin-barrel that is automatically winded and features a balance that is free-sprung, silicon pallet horns, and silicon balance spring. The movement runs at 4 kHz or 28,800 vibrations per second, with a power reserve capacity of up to 68 hours. Its casing measures 43mm by 13.23 mm, which makes it quite big for a dress watch. However, it is understandable considering that the moon display would appear squeezed in a 33mm case. However, as you may have expected from a watch designed by Jaquet Droz, the case does feel comfortable on your wrist, which can partly be attributed to the curved and short lungs. Moreover, the black dial is overall more compact than the other white dial versions from Jaquet Droz.

This watch will come at a price tag of $30,678.67, when it is introduced at Baselworld 2018.


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