Finally, MB&F has decided to make a timepiece solely dedicated to women, and it is a welcome surprise. As much as few women still wear watches, having a manufacturer that appreciates them enough to add a feminine touch in his products is not something to take for granted. While Max Busser admits he had no idea what a woman wants, the women in his life inspired him to get out of his comfort zone and create something for a woman. Therefore even when marketing the watch, he avoids the “unisex gender-bender” phrase by branding it as a woman’s watch. Besides, the watch’s diamonds go a step further to stamp the fact it is a watch for women; we all know how much women love diamonds. The watch itself is the MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T which oozes the elegance and energy that Max associates with women. What more did Max add to it? Let’s see.
The watch has three varieties, but they all are set with diamonds and are white gold. The first variation is a curved dial plate with inky black lacquer; the other is a dial plate with brilliant-cut diamonds and the last is a dial plate with a case fully-set with baguette-cut diamonds. All these variations have different prices with the black lacquer dial being the cheapest at $115,000. The other with brilliant-cut diamonds comes in next with a price tag of $145,000 while the baguette-cut diamonds is the most expensive going for $315,000, most likely because of the more than 8 carats of diamonds it has.
This watch has a solar motif made from titanium, platinum and red gold which not only swings in time with the automatic rotor but also hides almost the entire view of the movement. However, you can still observe the movement from the transparent sapphire case back. The rotor is in 3-D sun shape with sculpted rays, and the 4-day power reserve adds to its appeal, seeing that it is among the highest ever in the MB&F portfolio.
The movements in this watch are unique from other watches since it takes solutions from the HM7 Aquapod and HM6 series to have the engine using a vertical layout. The shape of the upper tourbillon carriage was challenging to make since the current design has more mass on one side while hiding the counterweight under the carriage. The movement consists of 280 components and 30 jewels, has an automatic winding while the frequency rate is 2.5 Hz.
Dial and case
Although the watch is part of the MB&F Legacy series whose collection comprises round watches, this timepiece had to be redesigned to adhere to the feminine look. Therefore, the height and diameter were reduced to have a diameter of 38.5 mm and thickness of 20mm. The lugs also had to be cut to give the watch an elegant look as Max intended. Unlike other watches, in this new timepiece, the time is privy to the wearer thanks to the small dial inclined at a 50-degree angle and positioned at 7 o’clock on the overall dial. The small hours and minutes counter feature a lacquered dial which can either be black or white depending on the model. It has Serpentine hands which have also been given a feminine touch that indicate the time in hours and minutes.
The 18-carat white gold case has slender and long lugs as well as the steeply cambered bezel. The sides of the case, the two crowns, and the lugs are adorned with either brilliant-cut or baguette-cut diamonds. The central flying sixty-second tourbillion has been designed with a unique upper cage that has a cantilevered double arch upper bridge rather than the typical battle-axe bridge identified with the brand.
Max Busser set out to create an epitome of femininity based on the women in his life particularly his mother and he has not failed in his attempt. Everything he has included in the watch has a significance, and he explains that the sun-shaped rotor stands for the element of life-giving and is the source if sustenance around and towards which we gravitate. Moreover, the column-like structure he incorporates in the flying tourbillion represents his view about women being the pillar of humanity. All these meanings, he has been able to bring out with so much elegance and vitality such that the watch becomes not just a timepiece but a representation of something more for the women.