The Fortis Cosmonautis AM Ceramic Chronograph, is an iconic watch that stood out from the Baselworld 2016 because of its unique design. The ingenious mix of silver and black dials, combined with ceramic and steel bezels, as well as the bracelet and leather options made it stand out as a version that would meet the needs of many fans. The only thing that made it unattractive was its price, at $3076.38, it was still out of reach for many fans. All that changed when their US retailer WatchBuys decided to go for a “direct pricing,” which brought them down to $1,680. That made not only affordable to many ardent fans, but also a worthy every dollar spent on it. In this review, we are going to take A Closer Look at the Fortis Cosmonautis AM Ceramic Chronograph.
The AM means this watch has a silver dial, but if you want one with a steel dial, you can choose the PM model. Starting with the case, which measures 42mm by 51mm by 15mm, it has a masculine appearance, but isn’t too big for a 7-inch wrist, although a slight increase in size would make it look oversize. Overall, the watch has a tall appearance but you wouldn’t be able to notice because of the undercuts. The case dips nicely into the wrist to give a slim appearance when worn, while the rounded sides, and domed crystal gives it a simple wristwatch appearance, that’s perfect for formal occasions.
Overall, you will like the simple design, which features flowing sides that are fully polished, brushed tapered lugs, as well as the crown and its guards on the right side of the case. However, you will notice that what stands out most, and makes it unique, is its black ceramic tachymeter bezel. The ceramic material gives it an appealing sheen that isn’t shiny, but has a light texture, while its white fill doesn’t appear as too bright, instead, it appears as somehow aged.
What some may not like about it, is that it uses screw-down pushers that were in the original 90s Cosmonautis. They can be quite a challenge to manipulate if you have the watch on, but the good news is that they work, but all you may also take off the watch, and make adjustments if necessary. The watch has a Valjoux 7750 movement, and it isn’t decorated much, apart from the custom rotor. Other than that, the outer look of this watch is simply great. Its rotor has a blue-filled Fortis logo etched into it, a text that says “World’s First Manufacturer of Automatic Wristwatches,” as well as some stars. The writing simply serves to remind you the watch’s history in space.
The real star of this watch is its dial, it shows a clear balance between legibility, great use of color, and most important, what a quality design should look like. That’s something that you don’t easily get from a wrist watch in that price range, which shouldn’t be surprising considering its initial pricing of over $3,000.
The black dial is obviously a classic design, however, the silver dial is a tribute to its original design for use in space. The dial has three sub-dials and two major areas that are separated by graining. In the center area that is sunburst, you will find the primary index. It’s within this area that you will find the numerals for each hour expect for 3, 6, 9, and 12. Instead of those numerals, you will find rectangular markers, as well as triangle for the case of 12. The markers are tall enough to give a 3-D look, and are filled with some green lume, and surrounded by black borders, which makes them legible at night.
The graining has also be used to separate the sub-dials at 12, 9, and 6, where one sub-dial shows the Chronograph hours, chronograph minutes, and active seconds. They all have clear black numerals as well as lines to make them easy to read. The hour and minute hand, they used swords that are black with the mid section filled with lumen. The second hand has a stick with an arrow that’s half orange half-black.
Overall, the Fortis Cosmonautis AM Ceramic Chronograph is one of the best wristwatches that you can get for $1,680. It’s designed to be worn in formal occasion, but it’s isn’t too formal that you can’t wear it to a game of golf, or when you are out to watch your favorite game. We hope that you found this review to be informative and engaging, and you will enjoy your new watch.