Roger Dubuis is known for consistently delivering extravagance and impertinence. The watchmaker’s body attribute is supported by its disregard for convention and integrated manufacturing processes. A known producer of luxury watch lines, the innovator is fearless in creating world-class ideas, pushing technological boundaries, and producing unique designs. Its motto, NO RULES, OUR GAME, is reinforced even more in its most recent release: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Tourbillon Cobalt Watch. Let’s review what this launch means to watch lovers and collectors around the world.
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur
Roger Dubuis watches are bathed in perfection, and the Excalibur is no different. The watchmaker took its time to produce this perfect blend of craftsmanship, innovation, and iconic design. In fact, the design of this watch – as well as that of the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon – serves as the launch of the company’s skeleton look, which has been reinterpreted to look more modern. Collectors are going to be drooling over the Excalibur watch collection for several years to come. These watches offer value and style from pieces that use the micro-rotor-based automatic movements to more complex masterpieces with double tourbillons. The single flying tourbillon Excalibur, which is a kind of middle ground for this line, also features an impressive metal case made from cobalt alloy.
Case and Design
Some people find the styling on Excalibur too stylish for everyday wear, but the Excalibur Tourbillon will actually blend well with any casual outfit. It is a mixture of style – of course – comfort and durability. The 42mm version will sit well on wide rests and offer amazing proportions for a classy look. Even better, the case, which is set between two sapphire crystals coated in AR, is also water-resistant. As mentioned, the design on this watch has a contemporary spin. The movement and case showcase clear lines, making the watch look and feel thinner, deeper, and more transparent. Ruger Dubuis rebuilt the calibre from the bottom to the top in a groundbreaking design that left the company star levitating over the barrel. The two-line pattern – a Roger Dubois signature – creates a strong visual appearance for the Excalibur. It appears on the tourbillon’s bezel, crown, hands, hour markings, and the arms of the star. Even more impressive, the lines are cleverly designed to look like they will meet, although they never do. Overall, the design is impressive and made even better by the company’s use of the Poinçon de Genève. This signature requires that every component of the watch be decorated manually. The resulting effect is beyond exquisite.
The Excalibur Tourbillon line is a limited edition, and only 88 pieces have been released. For the material, Roger Dubuis went with ‘CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCM,’ an industrial alloy that is commonly used in the automotive sector. Essentially, it is a corrosion-resistant, highly durable metal alloy of molybdenum, chromium, and cobalt made through vacuum induction melting and powder metallurgy. It is strong enough to last years but also flexible enough to be molded into different precise shapes. The alloy is weightier than and as shiny as steel. While it might not be solving any horological problems, it is sure to be more durable than carbon, and it will likely make for a good story.
The 42mm Excalibur line consists of three color options, each with only 88 pieces available. The options are Cobalt Chrome, of course, EON GOLD, and Dark Grey DLC Titanium. The EON GOLD is a new shade with a pink gold hue equipped with non-tarnish technology. As the name suggests, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Tourbillon Cobalt Watch is a mix of blue and cobalt – two colors that create a lovely theme. The strap is made from calf leather and presented in blue, ensuring that it is both comfortable and chic-looking. The buckle is spring-loaded and designed for both slimness and ergonomics. All in all, the colors blend together perfectly.
Roger Dubuis is currently using the star theme for all its productions, and the movement in the Tourbillon Cobalt matches this vision. The movement bridges have arms whose focal point falls over the middle of the mainspring barrel. The mechanism parts ways to some extent to expose the tell-tale star shape. Additionally, the watch is powered by the Roger Dubuis caliber RD512SQ, which the company designs and makes itself. It comes complete with a Seal of Geneva marking – a very prestigious honor. The movement is skeletonized and has a subsidiary seconds dial in the form of the spinning tourbillon window as well as the hour and minute hands. It has a 72-hour power reserve and operates at 3Hz. Thanks to the luminous material used to paint the markers, the display is both beautiful and legible. The fact that the movement is manually wound also makes the Tourbillon perfect for daily wear.
The lower tourbillon cage is made of titanium, which is two times lighter than stainless steel. The upper tourbillon cage, on the other hand, is made of a new Cobalt Chrome alloy to make the watch both aesthetically pleasing and light. This overall design makes it easier for the watch to reserve power for 72 hours, so you do not have to keep rewinding it.
Comfort and ergonomics are very important to Roger Dubuis, and the Tourbillon Cobalt reaffirms this. The line comes with 5 new strap sizes from 0 to 5. If you don’t know which size works for your wrist, pick the one that places the buckle at the center of your wrist. Another feature of comfort from this line is the ultra-flexible Quick Release System.
High-end watches often set the watch industry abuzz with a conversation of whether or not they will live up to their name. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Tourbillon Cobalt Watch is a perfect specimen of craftsmanship, design, functionality, and style. At first, you might be drawn to it due to its manufacturer – a well-respected name in the industry – but you will stay for the ergonomic fit and splendid visuals. The Tourbillon Cobalt also has a lot of character, being a limited edition piece with only 88 pieces produced. The only downside could be the hefty price tag. Currently, the watch goes for $146,500.