A Taste of Chattanooga: Plenty to Savor
People who know me, even marginally, know that expressing my opinions comes naturally. So, on that note, let me be crystal clear: if you love food, like food, or even have the vaguest notion that good food is essential to good living, then run, don’t walk, to Chattanooga. This holds whether you are a dedicated carnivore, prefer fish, or are a vegetarian. And if great coffee is your jam, you’ll be very happy indeed. That said, there is so much more to a Scenic City sojourn than great food.
Tennessee’s fourth-largest city, Chattanooga, sits along a bend in the Tennessee River, nestled between Lookout Mountain and the Cumberland Plateau. Its catchy name was adopted by early settlers in 1838 and derives from a Creek word associated with Lookout Mountain.
Sleeping in Classic Fashion
On March 5, 1880, the first passenger train departed Cincinnati bound for Chattanooga. Operated by the Cincinnati Southern Railway, America’s first municipal railway system, this route became a vital north-south transportation link. The train was dubbed the “Chattanooga Choo-Choo,” a name that obviously stuck. The rest, as they say, is history.
Located on the historic grounds of the Chattanooga Choo Choo, at the aptly named 92 Choo Choo Avenue, Hotel Chalet is a boutique retro hotel where railroad history meets contemporary style. The property has 127 rooms, including 25 accommodations where guests can experience sleeping in authentic, beautifully restored 1920s and 1960s Pullman train carriages. No small wonder it has twice been awarded a Michelin Key for its distinctive accommodations. Standard train-carriage rooms are a generous 300-square feet, while the MacArthur Suite occupies an entire Pullman car, encompassing a whopping 700-square feet, plus an additional 700-square feet of patio space.
Hanging my hat in a 350-square-foot king room it evoked an expansive train suite, complete with a velveteen corner banquette, period furnishings, including a stone-topped table, corduroy club chair, and brass fixtures throughout. Deep blue walls contributed to a restful atmosphere, further enhanced by an incredibly comfortable king-size bed dressed in high-thread-count cotton sheets. The beautiful mid-century wood bed frame incorporated built-in nightstands, electrical outlets, and USB ports.
A 60-inch flat-screen television, mini-fridge, and tea and coffee-making station completed the indoor living area, while burgundy velvet drapes opened onto a patio overlooking several vintage Pullman carriages.
The bathroom featured lovely individually laid tile floors, walk-in shower with fantastic water pressure, quartz vanity, environmentally friendly amenities by The Botanist & The Chemist, and thick Bellino towels.
The grounds also include an indoor fitness center equipped with Echelon treadmills, spin bike, rowing machine, and free weights. Outside, a year-round alpine swimming pool is surrounded by loungers, while The Caboose serves cocktails alongside mood-setting fire pits and evening live music.
Foodies Rejoice
For a memorable breakfast or lunch near Hotel Chalet, head to Niedlov’s Cafe & Bakery. Founded in 2002, this bakery supplies delectable carbs to many of Chattanooga’s best restaurants, and for good reason. This is a bakery that would have made Marie Antoinette blanche with glee, boasting some of the finest baguettes, sourdoughs, and pastries this carb fiend has ever experienced. It was so marvelous that I returned twice, once for breakfast and again for lunch.
In the Arts District, Rembrandt’s Coffee House is a terrific fueling stop because it understands one of life’s basic tenets: coffee doesn’t ask questions, it simply understands. Rembrandt’s delectable espresso shortbread cookies take that inherent human understanding and make miracles happen.
At Michelin-recommended Main Street Meats, you are almost certain to encounter not only one of the finest burgers around, made with USDA-inspected, hormone-free, pasture-raised beef, but also quite possibly the finest potato salad in the history of the free world. Served warm and laced with Dijon mustard, I astonishingly devoured two portions. This is remarkable, considering I don’t even like potato salad and never, ever eat it. Sometimes, when one’s arm is twisted into trying something, the results are delicious, at least culinarily speaking.
Housed in a historic brick warehouse with soaring ceilings, 2nd American is the second restaurant from owner and chef Daniel Lindley, whose first is Nashville’s 5th & Taylor. Upon entering, all eyes are drawn to George Dawnay’s massive statue of Quatie Ross, wife of Cherokee chief John Ross, looming above the bar and setting a historically dramatic tone. Lindley brings his considerable culinary talent to bear, much to the delight of Chattanooga residents and visitors alike.
Standout appetizers included tomato pie with fromage blanc, hamachi and tuna crudo with cucumber and lime, served with house-made potato chips, and Sequatchie Cove Farm cheeses accompanied by perfectly tart blackberry jam. Though already well-sated, I somehow managed to devour my vegetarian entrée: twice-baked spaghetti squash with shiitake mushrooms, spinach, roasted tomatoes, and mozzarella.
At Little Coyote, Chef Erik Neil pays homage to his Texas roots while showcasing his craft with Chattanooga-style smoked barbecue. The Bear Creek Farm steak fajitas are a carnivore’s dream. The Mississippi catfish was delicately fried and perfect. And the sweet potatoes, cooked in tallow, were nearly a religious experience. This extravaganza ended on a happy childhood note: soft-serve ice cream. Pumpkin with pepitas and sorghum sauce, Mexican vanilla with hibiscus and lime, and a swirl of both for those of us who simply cannot commit.
Having spent considerable time in the Middle East and with a mother from the region, I know good Levantine food. That Jordanian chef Khaled Albanna created Calliope Restaurant, a veritable oasis of Middle Eastern magic in the heart of Chattanooga, nearly brought me to tears with familiar, familial joy.
The baba ghanoush with pomegranate molasses and whipped feta with warm, house-made pita were comfortingly delectable. I will not soon forget the maitake mushrooms with scallion aioli, which burst with flavor and made the perfect accompaniment to sea bass that simply could not have been better. The meal ended with a pistachio profiterole, crunchy on the outside and so outstanding that it forever altered my view of profiteroles. Not surprisingly Calliope appeared on the 2025 New York Times list of the best restaurants in the U.S.
Cool Cultural Finds
Serving as the crown jewel of the Tennessee Riverwalk and park system, the bright blue Walnut Street Bridge connects the downtown riverfront with the North Shore. It is one of the longest pedestrian bridges in the United States. Once a passage for wagons, it is now a gathering place for festivals, families, and spectacular views of the somewhat tamed Tennessee River. Nearby, the world-class Tennessee Aquarium at Ross’s Landing offers freshwater ecosystems, Appalachian habitats, and an ocean wing.
From here, it’s just a two-minute walk to three places that made Chattanooga particularly memorable.
First, in honor of Veterans Day and my father, who is buried in a VA cemetery, I visited the Charles H. Coolidge National Medal of Honor Heritage Center. Chattanooga is officially recognized as the birthplace of the Medal of Honor, as the first medals were awarded here in 1863 for actions connected to the Civil War.
As you enter the second-floor gallery, just above a large portrait of Abraham Lincoln, are the wise words: “A nation that does not honor its heroes will not long endure.” They prompted me to reflect on John McCain’s service and sacrifice, among many others. Although McCain did not receive the Medal of Honor, he was awarded numerous other military decorations.
As I left, I thought about Medal of Honor recipient Paul Bucha’s poignant words:
“The medal of honor recipients are ordinary people who, one time in their lives, faced circumstances when they decided that destiny, as they understood it to be, was unacceptable. They found within themselves the potential to literally change fate. The same potential resides in every American and is worthy of respect and celebration without the need of a medal or uniform.”
Gospel truth, that.
The second stop was the Anna Safley Houston Museum of Decorative Arts in the Bluff View Art District. Housed in an architecturally significant 1892 building donated to the museum, it showcases a mind-blowing collection of glass and ceramic pieces amassed during Houston’s utterly remarkable life, which included being married ten times! The building’s renovation took two years, followed by the painstaking process of cataloging Houston’s massive collection of more than 10,000 pieces by its devoted stewards.
Among the highlights are cabinets showcasing “Vaseline” glass, a yellow-green glass made with small amounts of uranium oxide. Under ultraviolet light, the uranium causes the glass to glow bright green, revealing qualities invisible under ordinary lighting.
On the second floor, one corner gallery features colorful ceramic jugs artistically suspended from the ceiling. In the adjoining room are two wooden chests filled with ceramic human-face receptacles designed to store tobacco and other items. Each has an unusual facial expression and personality.
Also in the Arts District is the Hunter Museum of American Art, which comprises two wings. The Mansion houses the permanent collection from the 1700s and 1800s, while the East Wing showcases works from the late 1800s through contemporary times. Among the latter is the exuberantly colorful “Upcycled Garden.” Created by toy designer Daniel “Attaboy” Seifert using discarded cardboard, wallpaper, and house paint, this installation is sure to bring a smile to your face.
The Lessons Learned
Saying goodbye to a place, whether newly discovered or rediscovered, is always a bit melancholy. But Chattanooga has a way of making you want to linger. Between its culinary treasures, unexpected cultural discoveries, distinctive accommodations, and genuinely hospitable residents, Scenic City offers considerably more than its name suggests. I arrived expecting a good meal or two; I left with an appetite for more. And that, I suppose, is the best reason to return.
Happy travels!
