Cruising the Danube on Riverside Cruise’s Mozart
For travelers wishing to visit several destinations at a relaxed pace without having to pack, unpack, and repack at every location, cruising is always a good choice. If you are looking to river cruise on a beautiful ship with excellent cuisine, impeccable service, and knowledgeable local guides, Riverside Cruises is a great option.
Mid-October I embarked on Riverside’s Mozart for a seven-day journey on the majestic Danube commencing in Passau, Germany, a two-hour ride from Munich. Handed a glass of champagne on the gangway at embarkation prior to a one-minute check-in, I was pretty sure it would end well. Happily, I was 100-percent correct.
Built in 1987 and fully renovated in 2016 when owned by Crystal Cruises, and again refreshed in 2023 with no expense spared; indeed, it’s the loveliest of the many river ships on which I’ve cruised. Designed to be modern, yet warm, there are several distinctly decorated and inviting seating areas throughout the ship to enjoy. The 395-foot Mozart holds a maximum of 158 passengers with 82 European crew members.
Wonderful service truly embodies Riverside’s six-star status. On this Autumn journey there were just 30-passengers ranging from 40-80, mostly North American and British guests, although the voyages immediately preceding and after had 90 and 110 guests respectively. By day two, it felt like a private cruise filled with friendly acquaintances. The delightful, highly trained, professional staff made clear no request was too difficult.
The majority of suites are approximately 204 square feet, including the lovely Riverside Suite in which I stayed. The blue and gray carpet mimicked the fall river, had a deliriously comfortable king-size bed with padded leather headboard and high-count cotton sheets. The marble-topped nightstands boasted four USB ports and four electrical outlets making even the geekiest computer nerd giddy. The sitting area had a voluptuous velour sofa, a granite-topped working desk, two more USB ports and two additional outlets. The minibar had a stocked refrigerator and the all-important Nespresso machine. A 42-inch flatscreen television was wall-embedded and the suite was accented with cove molding adding a sense of warmth. Black-out curtains assured dreamy slumber.
The travertine tiled bathroom had an advanced Toto appliance with all the bells and whistles, a lighted make-up mirror, luxurious towels, walk-in shower with both 12-inch rain and European showerheads providing strong pressure. Top shelf Natura Bissé amenities were housed in environmentally friendly dispensers.
The Mozart has 24-hour room service for potential midnight munchies, though you’ll likely be too sated by the delectable, innovative meals prepared under the supervision of the affable and talented Executive Chef Johannes Bär at one of Mozart’s four restaurants, the principal Waterside, Blue for casual fare, outdoor Vista Grill & Bar, the Bistro for late breakfasts, lunches and specialty nights, or the Vintage Room’s wine-paired specialty dining extravaganza. For all meals, one of Mozart’s two sommeliers was always on-hand to suggest and pour excellent international wines.
Pastry Chef Barbara Gyöngyver confirmed through her highly accomplished baking what we carb lovers all know: Diet is a foul, four-letter word, and anything in the English language containing the word “die” should be excised. Except perhaps, “I’ll just die if I can’t have another warm pretzel or one of her to-die-for chocolate chip cookies.”
Fear not, weight gain is not imperative since included excursions provide for plenty of walking, hiking, or bike riding. There is also an excellent, generous state-of-the-art fitness center with TechnoGym equipment, free weights, and yoga mats. For those wishing to be outside, Mozart’s top deck can be walked or jogged around. Few things are more pleasurable than doing that while the Mozart glides by fairytale-like villages.
The Mozart also has a full-service salon including hair and nail services for both men and women. The Fehi Spa has talented masseuses, a beautiful mosaic-tiled indoor swimming pool, jacuzzi, and separate locker rooms with steam, sauna, and showers.
The Delightful Danube
Our first stop on Europe’s second longest river – after the Volga – was Mauthausen. Options were a Danube bike ride, Baroque Monastery or Mauthausen Camp. Nearly all passengers opted for the latter. Once holding 200,000 people, many arriving from Dachau, half perished. Somehow though hope managed to survive. Simon Wiesenthal, who ultimately and famously became “The Nazi Hunter,” was liberated here by the Americans on May 5, 1945. Our excellent guide had familial experience. While not Jewish, her grandfather had perished as a political prisoner. Mauthausen’s museum, housed in the former “infirmary,” has on permanent physical display and computerized, the names of every single person who perished there, including a half-dozen of my family namesakes.
Following an excellent lunch of grilled prawns, we sailed to Grein and Austria’s oldest residential Greinburg Castle. Erected in 1490 it’s still used by the ducal Saxe-Coburg and Gotha family members. The scenes in the Stone Theater – arches, columns, trees – were constructed using 22 million Danube stones of various colors.
Waltzing Around Vienna
We spent two days in The City of Music, though one could easily stay weeks and still not see everything this wonderful city has to offer.
Of all the excursions and walking we did, two stood out. First, an excursion with an art historian brought us to Kunsthistorisches Museum, a glorious building created to display the Hapsburg royal family collection. The ceilings by Gustav Klimt and others were jaw dropping. The jewelry room included the enormous cameo pendant once belonging to Cleopatra, and the 9AD Gemma Augustea cameo glorifying Emperor Augustus and his successor Tiberius. Here also is Vermeer’s “The Art of Painting,” especially poignant as he only created 30 pieces. Until January 12, 2025, there is also a special Rembrandt exhibition.
Second was a private evening at the Belvedere Museum. Completed in 1723, the Belvedere is comprised of Upper and Lower sections and once served as the Austrian prince’s summer residence. The Upper was opened for us to see Klimt’s “The Kiss” and “Judith.” This was followed by an incredible 10-piece orchestra concert with two opera singers in the breathtaking Marble Hall. It was a night to remember.
The Hapsburg family’s summer home, Schönbrunn Palace, a Baroque masterpiece was built in the 18th century and possesses 1,441 rooms with incredible art, furnishings and massive gardens. Especially impressive was the blue and white porcelain room though it actually only has two pieces of porcelain – the clock and chandelier.
The 13th century Hofburg Palace Complex served as the winter palace of the Hapsburg dynasty and also houses the National Library, the President’s office, and the famous Spanish Riding School for dressage featuring the regal Lippizaner stallions. Watching morning practice sessions is quite the sight.
Melk and Ybbs
Melk boasts the 1736 legendary Baroque Benedictine Abbey overlooking the Wachau Valley where nearly 1,000 pupils study. There are rooms of frescoed and mirrored walls, religious art and paraphernalia, but most significant were the Library – containing 16,000 volumes – and Marble Hall’s 1731-32 ceiling frescoes by Paul Troger.
As we sailed toward Ybbs, we enjoyed fantastic Roquefort blue cheeseburgers onboard at Blue. Then another voyage highlight to the 13th-century Artstetten Castle where Riverside had arranged a private viewing and to have a chat over champagne with Alix de La Poeze, Comtesse d’Harambure-Fraye. Her great, great grandfather was Archduke Franz Ferdinand whose 1914 assassination with his wife Sophie in Sarajevo resulted in WWI’s commencement. An utterly delightful woman, she lives at Artstetten with her husband, five children, her mother Princess Anita, and several relatives. There’s a small informative museum, great photographs, and in the basement crypt, Franz, Sophie, and other family members rest.
Singing Along in Salzburg
Arriving in Linz, many opted to enjoy the famed Linzer tortes, but instead we drove to Salzburg, where both the magic of Mozart and The Sound of Music were born. The film while wonderful took creative liberties with the facts. Georg von Trapp was born in what is today Croatia. Widowed with seven children– he became a Baron after earning an Austrian medal during WWI and then obtaining Austrian citizenship. Settling in Salzburg he lost his inherited fortune in the 1929 crash and then monetized his children’s s Different inging talent to survive. Refusing a Nazi commission, he, his second wife Maria, and the singing brood of then 10 kids fled, ultimately to the U.S., though not through the Swiss Alps and not nearly as dramatically as the film portrayed.
Salzburg has well preserved Baroque architecture and the Old City’s cobblestone streets, quaint shops, galleries, and Cathedral all make for a perfect day. There are also Mozart piano and violin sonatas at the Raddison Blu Hotel and Old Residence.
Saying Auf Wiedersehen in Passau
Of Passau, Napoleon once said, “In Germany, I’ve never seen a town so beautiful.” Most of the Old City is on a peninsula of narrow lanes boasting Baroque architecture with St. Stephens Church at its center. Known as the ‘Venice of Bavaria,’ the jury is still out on whether the Danube flows into the Inn River or vice versa.
Our final dinner was a delight of gratinated escargots, grilled beef medallion so tender my knife snored, while the truffle potato mousseline made me doubly grateful for smart, sniffing canines. Ending the meal with a Madeira demi-glace graced with perfectly paired wines, we toasted Chef Bär and Riverside as both had provided a truly wonderful experience.
Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in several major publications around the world, including The LA Times, The SF Examiner, The Asia Times, U.S. News & World Report, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Daily Journal and The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, among many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com.
