Ooh La La to Anguilla’s Altamer Villas
On the sparsely populated Caribbean Island of Anguilla, silky white sand beaches with bathtub warm waters in 50 shades of blue are everywhere. This delightful 35-square mile island boasts 33 such beaches. In fact, at least 32 of those 33 beaches will be the most glorious beaches you’ve ever seen. Indeed, ask anyone, local or guest, and you’ll be thoroughly regaled of the virtues of their favorite spot. Personally, my all-time favorite Anguillan beach was whichever one I happened to be enjoying at that particular moment. Coming from Hawai’i, I know good beaches. Anguilla’s beaches, one and all, are, in a word, fantastic.
Located just 12-miles from the half-Dutch, half-French island of St. Martin – one can easily take the 30-minute ferry from St. Martin. Departing from a jetty about 50-yards from St. Martin’s Princess Julianna Airport and immediately offered rum punch, we arrived happy as clams at Anguilla’s Blowing Point Ferry Terminal. Alternatively, there are non-stop flights directly to Anguilla from Miami and other US cities.
Besides gorgeous beaches, there’s abundant sea life to admire for both snorkelers and scuba divers. For golfers, an 18-hole Greg Norman designed champion golf course and a nine-hole Avalon Links course await at Aurora Anguilla. There’s also tennis, sailing, kayaking and a plethora of other outdoor activities. Coupled with great food, hospitable locals and delightful beachfront accommodations, a jaunt to the British Overseas Territory of Anguilla is a delightful tropical island holiday.
It takes a Villa
There are many excellent luxury hotels on Anguilla. However, if planning a multi-generational visit, a friends’ getaway, or family vacation seeking peace and quiet and plenty of space to accommodate differing interests, renting the staffed Altamer Villas, is an excellent choice.
Near Shoal Bay West, American modernist architect Myron Goldfinger designed Villa Altamer in 1997 in distinctly geometric form with part of the exterior clearly resembling ship sails. The three beachfront villas on the compound have now been fully renovated, boasting 21-foot ceilings and walls of Category-5 hurricane resistant windows to best admire nature’s bounty.
The complex is composed of two enormous beachfront villas, the 13,000-square foot, five and one-half-bedroom, seven-bathroom ‘Blue Diamond’ and the 12,000-square foot, four-bedroom, five-bathroom ‘Antilles Pearl.’ These two villas can be rented out separately or together. There’s also the 1,300 square foot, two-story ‘Petit Topaz’ which can be rented with either or both of the main villas. The Petit Topaz is perfect for a nanny and children, a teenagers’ retreat, or for an additional couple.
The two main villas each have enormous living and dining rooms with original local art, a “play area” with billiards, ping pong, poker table, backgammon and half-moon shaped home theater. Each has a cook’s kitchen containing two subzero refrigerators, wine refrigerator, Smeg appliances and Illy expresso machines. Fronting the main villas, are two beachfront pools with loungers, hammocks, plentiful seating and al fresco dining areas.
Primary suites in both main villas are larger than entire apartments in many American cities. An incredibly comfortable four-poster bed in Antilles Pearl where I slumbered had luscious high-count sheets. Combined with the sea’s sweet sounds afforded deep, rejuvenating sleep. There was also a large working desk, dining area, and a massive balcony overlooking the sea. The large marble-walled, curved bathroom had separated dual vanities, walk-in shower, and a freestanding bathtub.
There are two gyms on the property, one in Blue Diamond with Star Trac treadmill, Echelon spinning bike, full set of hand weights, workout bench, jump rope, yoga mat and blocks. The other is adjacent to Petit Topaz that also has an elliptical machine. There are also two tennis courts.
Each villa has its own dedicated majordomo, both whose surname is Richardson – though unrelated – and both of whom have been with Altamer for over 20 years. Twice daily housekeeping and laundry services are also included. While staff goes home in the late evenings returning early morning, a seemingly unneeded security guard – no paparazzi here – remains in the compound throughout the night.
Food Matters
Altamer staff prepared a lovely continental breakfast daily with fresh tropical fruits, yogurt parfaits, cereals, and – bestow my heart – pain chocolate and croissants.
On Meads Bay Beach, one of the island’s most gorgeous, and a stone’s throw from the Four Seasons Resort, is Blanchard’s Beach Shack. While my blackened mahi salad was cooking, I dove into irresistibly balmy waters. Comfortable beach chairs and umbrellas lined this tranche of heaven. Sated by my delicious salad, ocean dip and eye candy views, I was pleased as punch.
Six miles north of Road Bay is an offshore, uninhabited cay. Here Prickly Pear Bar & Restaurant provides an unheralded natural experience where flitting, banana-breasted sugar birds and Jurassic-looking iguanas vied equally for attention.
Order the ‘bit of everything’ – you can thank me later – and enjoy divine rum punches, fresh lobster, grilled chicken and shrimp, great side dishes, including a cole slaw you’ll wished your grandmother had made.
At well-known Sharky’s Restaurant, one should be prepared to dine on delectable grilled lobster. Sweet, tender and so flavorful, butter was irrelevant. Also on the menu: a lobster cake so delicious, you’ll no longer look at crab cakes quite the same way. Sharky’s lobster stir fry was also tasty, presenting as pescatarian fine art.
The first and final evenings at Altamer my group of female foodies and I tremendously enjoyed being spoiled by local chef extraordinaire, Kelston Conner, aka Chef Sweets. One evening we sat outside as he prepared flatbread with truffle oil-infused mushrooms, spicy lobster red curry and perfectly prepared Angus rib-eye, so delicious and tender my knife yawned with boredom.
Another night under the stars Chef Sweets prepared Thai cuisine: green papaya salad, chicken curry and basmati rice. Crossing cultural boundaries with ease like a skilled surfer hanging 10 on a point break, Sweets ended our meal with warm churros served with chocolate and caramel dipping sauces. All I could muster thereafter was the 20-foot walk to the villa door.
The Finds
A great way to explore the island and its marvelous beaches and natural sites like the famous Arch, is by open-air Moke. While it’s hard to get lost on Anguilla, a bit of concentration is necessary since Anguillans drive on the left side of the road.
Another terrific method of exploration is by sea. One day we chartered a 38-foot Calypso for a half-day of beach hopping, swimming and snorkeling in picture perfect spots that culminated at Prickly Pear Cay. It would be hard to imagine a more perfect day.
Music and nightlife aficionados will want to head to Sandy Ground. Here you’ll find the popular Elvis’ Beach Bar, LIT Lounge and homegrown music icon Bankie Banx’s Dune Preserve.
Spa lovers should stop in at Zemi Beach House on Shoal Bay East. Its Thai Spa has Thailand-imported traditional wood buildings, a stunning white marble hammam, juice bar and Zen-inspired relaxation areas.
If you want to experience a cross-cultural confluence, you can ferry to Saint Martin’s Philipsburg on the Dutch side for a spell of retain therapy. Then head to Marigot on the French side for some bistro fare. Consider yourself linguistic as you’ll hear Dutch, French, English and perhaps Spanish, all in one perfect day.
For travelers wishing to end their sojourn by doing good, those going to North America can chaperone a homeless puppy to their new stateside home. Fly to Freedom dog rescue, an Anguilla-based 501(c)3 non-profit volunteer organization pays for all costs of the transport, including the carrier. The good karma you collect for saving a furry life is free. It’s a win-win.
The Lesson Learned
There is plenty to do to keep one occupied on Anguilla, not the least of which is lollygagging on some of the world’s finest beaches and most pristine waters. Some of my favorite memories are the daydream-inducing cloud movements while basking in the waters on long sunny days and the nights’ silence punctuated by symphonic seas. It will be those memories wedded to the genuine hospitality of Anguillans generally and Altamer specifically, not to mention great food, that has me plotting my return. Happy travels!
Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in several major publications around the world, including The LA Times, The SF Examiner, The Asia Times, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Daily Journal and The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, among many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com.
