The Magnificence of Paris’ Le Meurice Hotel
The City of Lights is no stranger to great hotels. However, saying that the Dorchester Collection’s Le Meurice is a great hotel would be like saying Victor Hugo had writing skills. Le Meurice is, in a word, timeless. No small wonder the French government awarded it “Palace” status in 2011.
Upon entry guests are transported to a bygone area and transfixed by its elegance, distinction, and fine art. Choosing Le Meurice while in Paris is so much more than staying at a hotel; it is a way of experiencing Paris in its grandeur.
Le Meurice was originally opened at its current location on 228 Rue de Rivoli in 1835 by owner Charles-Augustin Meurice often catering to British guests. Its first bar, originally a reading room, opened in 1936. Today it’s called Bar 228 – so named after the hotel’s address – and is richly design forward with stunning art by Alexandre C.L. Lavalley.
With Salvador Dali in mind, in 2007 Philippe Starck added several whimsical touches as Dali made Le Meurice his home in the Presidential Suite annually for a month for three decades, often with his pet ocelots in tow.
Upon entering, guests are faced with “The Kiss.” Created by Zoulikha Bouabbella, it’s composed of twisting Greek columns. Some say it represents the past and the future, while others think it denotes a couple’s architectural embrace. On the right, Starck’s massive “Frozen Mirror” reflects Dali’s playful spirit. Guests can carve pithy signatures or phrases, then its surface defrosts nightly. Due to an innovative refrigeration system, it then creates a daily new icy blank canvas to start anew.
Upon checking in, make certain to look up to see the art suspended from the ceiling. Gaze also to your right at the candlelit display and mélange of hand mirrors. From the vantage of Bar 228 right behind this piece, look carefully and Dali will be looking directly at you.
In Good Company
Pablo Picasso married ballet dancer Olga Khokhlova here in 1918. Other notables who have stayed here include Nelson Mandela, Beyoncé, Grace Jones, and Andy Warhol, to name a few. As there are precious few who doesn’t love a good scandal, especially when the truth can’t be fully verified or fact checked, rumor has it that Napoleon III had a secret tunnel built from the lovely Tuileries Garden across the street to Le Meurice for secret visits with his mistress, Harriet Howard.
Napoleon’s personal proclivities notwithstanding, he may have unwittingly set the tone for Le Meurice as guests stay here to enjoy discretion, privacy, and discernment. Indeed, each property in the Dorchester Collection has its own unique identity.
The Bed
Staying in a Park View Suite, I quickly commenced channeling my inner royalty. The massive salon had full length windows dressed in melon-shaded brocade draperies that framed the Eiffel Tower, Tuileries Garden, and the Glowing Balloon rising every summer evening leading up to the 2028 Summer evening.
A large seating area included a voluptuous, three-seater sofa, marble coffee table, and four upholstered period chairs. There was also a massive working desk with plenty of USB ports and outlets.
The salon centered on the fireplace’s marble hearth and flatscreen TV. The bar area had a Nespresso machine, Bodum hot pot, and fully stocked refrigerator. A powder room completed this lovely space.
The bedroom’s oversized, king-size bed with high-count, satin-cotton sheets, guaranteed the sleep of the innocent – and surely even the guilty. Dual marble-topped nightstands had a full array of USB ports and outlets, and happily, controls for all lighting and blackout curtains. The bedroom was accented by a crystal chandelier, another working desk, flatscreen TV, and an additional seating area.
The dual vanity marble bathroom with intricate mosaic accents was a site to behold. It contained a separate walk-in shower, a deep soaking bathtub with Dorchester Collection Wildsmith environmentally-sized amenities, divinely thick towels, and enveloping robes. For news junkies, the 18-inch television was built-in to the mirror. The enclosed WC and bidet ensured privacy.
There was sufficient closet space in both the suite to be perfectly dressed for weeks of fashionable, high-end events, or to store serious shopping. One closet also had a yoga mat, weight ring, and hand weights.
The Meals
In 2013 culinary artist and multiple Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse took on the role of overseeing all dining at Le Meurice.
Breakfast at Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse is both visually and culinarily delightful. Forty-foot arched windows are dressed with appliqué design drapery, marble trim and gold accents that compete for attention with frescoed ceilings and intricate laurel leaf mosaic tile floors. The focal point of this exquisite room is the massive oval fresco framed in marble above the enormous fireplace and hearth.
The brioche here no doubt inspired Marie Antoinette’s now infamous line, “Let them eat cake” and was otherworldly. There are six choices of jams and Nutella, countless viennoiserie offerings, and of course healthy made-to-order items such as green juice, avocado toast, and egg white omelets.
The Starck-designed Restaurant Le Dali of course had Dali in mind. In a stunning setting, the massive and impressive art installation draping the ceiling was created by Starck’s 30-year-old daughter Ara, who won the competition with an anonymous entry. Proving in spades, the apple tree theory.
Our dinner commenced with delectable foie gras and figs followed by a flavorful flap steak. The piéce de résistance was an irresistible troupe l’oeil “mango” by award-winning pastry chef Cédric Grolet was a life altering textural tastebud nirvana. If one is not enough, return for afternoon tea and sample of the other “fruits.”
Maison Roland is Shangri-La Paris’ newest restaurant in an intimate garden-like setting and pays homage to the grand residence’s former owner, Napolean’s nephew Roland. The signature Brittany oysters were marvelous, while the simply grilled lobster was succulent, tender, and delicious. The chocolate mousse and signature floating island were both, utterly divine. Roland would have been thrilled.
If you’re near the Champs-Èlysées and seeking a quiet space to unwind, NH Collection’s Paris Ponthieu L’Angle des Champs has a French/Spanish fusion menu. The tuna crudo boasted a tangy mint sauce, and the pan-fried halibut and polenta was comforting. For those seeking to combine eating and strolling, Eating Europe offers several food, wine, and guided walking tours in several Parisian neighborhoods so that in theory one could walk off the cuisine.
For simple fare, or a late-night snack, Café de Paris on Rue d’Eschelle has a good charcuterie plate served with top-notch people watching.
The Finds
Having lived in Paris, iI can say it never fails to deliver. There are however a few places that no matter what else is on the agenda, must be revisited.
One such place is Rue du Bac’s Deyrolles Paris for unbelievable taxidermy, entomology, and butterflies. Since 1831 it has highly satisfied the curiosity of those interested in preserved marvels of the natural world.
Shakespeare & Co. has a great selection of English books in a storied location and building that serves the motto, “Open door, open books, open mind, open heart.” Make sure and venture upstairs to the various reading areas.
American Sylvia Beach who lived most of her life in Paris was its founder. Then half bookstore and half lending library, her patrons included Ernie Hemmingway, Gertrude Stein, Janet Flanner, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and T.S. Elliot. Beach acted as a banker, post office, and friend. She was the first to publish James Joyce’s “Ulysses” in 1922. French writer Andre Chamson said of her, “Beach did more to link England, the US, Ireland, and France than four great Ambassadors combined.” Beach clearly lived the phrase on Shakespeare’s wall, “Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be angels in disguise.”
After over five years of restoration following the devastating 2019 fire, Notre Dame in all of her glory reopened in December 2024. To visit with fewer crowds, go outside of scheduled Mass hours. Another perennial favorite is the Rodin Museum across from Invalides. Not just for the master’s divine sculptures, but also for the manicured grounds – with more sculptures – and the outdoor café. For those interested in designer resale shops – all the rage these days – there are several good ones on the stroll from Places des Vosges to Canal St. Martin.
La Maison Valmont Spa, its only Paris locale is at Le Meurice, and is a tranquil haven with magnificent crystal sculptures cut to appear as the Swiss Alps. Here I enjoyed an excellent deep tissue massage with a very talented therapist. Its Hammam, sauna, and outdoor terrace made for a perfect afternoon. The airy, state-of-the-art fitness center with all manner of TechnoGym equipment and weights has everything needed to work off the city’s marvelous cuisine.
Whether it’s your first or hundredth time to Paris, and no matter what you do while there, for an unforgettable stay you will definitely want to stay at Le Meurice. Bon voyage and happy travels!
