The Undeniable Allure of New Orleans
Whether you love music, great food, or marvelous architecture, or all three, not to mention Mardi Gras, your proverbial cup will certainly runneth over with time spent in New Orleans. While I traveled to the Cresent City this time to attend the marvelous nuptials of dear friends, the inherent celebratory nature of this city on the Mississippi River only enhanced an already perfect love story.
The Bed
With floral arrangements crafted by Jeff Leatham in honor of Mardi Gras, entering the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans is akin to a sensation of a modern-day garden of Eden, happily without the dastardly serpent. A few steps in, one is again bowled over by the Chandelier Bar appropriately named as it’s embraced by a massive chandelier created from 15,000 ever sparkling Czech crystals. With talented mixologists and shareable bites from the acclaimed, and charming James Beard award-winning Chef Alon Shaya, it is the perfect spot to receive an enchanted welcome.
My large, high-ceilinged room had a modern design, yet with a calming color palette and boasted two separate seating areas, including a large three-seater sofa and lounger. Deliriously soft, high-count bedding was framed by a white floral relief tryptic mural and faced a 70-inch flatscreen television. Dual nightstands with multiple USB ports and outlets made staying charged and connected easy. Automatic drapes and easy-to-locate light switches – the bane of every traveling journalist’s existence – ensured that entering, exiting, and most importantly, retiring for the night, was a snap.
A separate refreshment area contained the all-important Nespresso machine, tea kettle, and stocked mini bar. A thoughtful, much appreciated touch for those who have a hard time making decisions of caffeinated accoutrement variety – myself included – was the presence of three different types of coffee creams. An abundance of closet space meant my evening gown for the wedding and other clothes all stayed wrinkle-free.
The beautiful white marble dual-sink bathroom was housed in an expansive space and included a glorious, window-facing deep soaking tub, a two-person stall shower with both European and rain shower heads and contained almond scented l’Occitane environmentally sized amenities.
The Meals
Many books have been written about food in New Orleans in general and Creole cooking in particular, all for very good reasons. At Miss River, headed by Chef Alon, I devoured the salad Maison with grilled avocado and crab while my dining partner thoroughly enjoyed the duck confit Caeser salad. The warm sweet potato brioche delighted my carbo-loading predilections. As delightful as my lunch companion was, I almost summarily abandoned her to join a nearby table once they were served Chef Alon’s blackened gulf snapper and vegetable green curry. Ending the lunch with decadently delicious chocolate espresso cookies concluded a perfect meal.
For a quintessential New Orleans meal, Bourbon Street’s famous Galatoire’s Restaurant has great food and an abundance of history. Opened in 1905 by Frenchman Jean Galatoire, the restaurant has remained in the family now for five generations. Here the seafood gumbo made me swoon and the lightly fried gull fish was excellent.
For the carnivores among us, the Four Seasons New Orleans Chemin á la Mer is perhaps the ultimate French Quarter steakhouse. Impeccable cuisine is spearheaded by James Beard award-winning Chef Donald Link amid scenic views of the Mississippi River. For pescatarians and shellfish aficionados, there’s a fresh oyster selection, steamed Louisiana shrimp, and my personal favorite, shrimp and grits.
If you have time for another meal, you’ll definitely want to dine at Chef Alon’s Saba Restaurant – named for his grandfather – on Magazine Street. Here Chef Alon pays homage to the very best of Middle-Eastern cuisine with tastes of Israel, Syria, Turkey, Yemen, and Morocco and also caters private events one which I had the privilege of attending. The wood-fired pita bread will be among the best you’ve eaten and family-style platters of traditional and evolving dishes use the freshest ingredients sourced from local farms.
With all this good food – and I will not even broch the subject of the city’s beignets – fortunately for my waistline, the Four Seasons has a state-of-the-art fitness center with a separate spinning room, LifeFitness treadmills, ellipticals, rowing, and all manner of exercise machines, yoga mats, and free weights. If you prefer to swim off your caloric intake, there’s a beautiful swimming pool and Jacuzzi on the fifth floor with urban views and several lovely, shaded casitas.
The Finds
Whether it’s your first or tenth time to Cresent City, a great first stop to get acclimated and one’s bearings and to provide the groundwork for a bucket list of sights to see, pop into The Vue Orleans. The Vue provides enlightening displays of the city’s history, food, music, and culture. Of particular note, the high-tech interactive kitchen where guests can learn about its famous and mouthwatering cuisine from local chefs is unique and interesting. After this, take the elevator to the 33rd floor indoor observation deck and 34th floor, 360-degree observation deck for an unforgettable view, and of course, a great cocktail.
For those of us who live to eat, New Orleans is a great walking city to burn off some of those calories while enjoying the sights. Along Charles Street past the courthouse is Jackson Square in honor of Major General Andrew Jackson. Facing the square is the majestic St. Louis Cathedral. Directly in front of the square, should the mood strike you, you can get your tarot cards read, buy art from local artisans, and watch comedians and magicians perform alfresco. When your thirst needs quenching, head to Muriel’s Jackson Square for refreshment and watch the square’s activities from the balcony.
Strolling along Woldenberg Riverfront Park one can jump on a steamer and cruise along the Mississippi River, people watch to your heart’s content or go jogging. This 16-acre green space running along the river to the French Quarter was named after Malcom Woldenberg, one of the Louisiana’s greatest and most generous 20th century philanthropists.
The arts district is another good walk and nearby Lafayette Square, planned in 1788, has gorgeous, mature trees honoring the American revolutionary war hero. Around the square are several significant buildings, including the Federal Reserve’s oldest branch with its Museum of Trade and Finance. Here you can learn, among other things, how cotton and sugar put New Orleans on the map and what made some early Louisiana bank notes unique. Here also is the U.S. Court of Appeals and Gallier Hall building, the classically designed Greek Revival structure completed in 1853 with its 10 majestically imposing ionic columns.
In the event of any fashion emergencies, a stone’s throw from the Four Seasons is Saks Fifth Avenue and just behind the hotel, the Riverwalk Outlet Collection.
All of this walking and celebrating had me yearning for a great massage and the Four Season’s Spa fit the bill. On a supremely comfortable massage bed, and with a skilled therapist, all had me completely forget that in 13 days I had traversed 12,000 miles in three cities on two continents. The eucalyptus shower and steam room followed by a glass of Prosecco on the adjoining patio resulted in an entirely blissful experience.
The Lessons Learned
Even if ranch dressing atop dill pickles, or fried green tomatoes don’t float your boat, without a doubt, New Orleans has some of the most delicious food anywhere, including of course, various iterations of the all-important shrimp and grits and seafood gumbo. Add to that the music, culture, festive atmosphere, and of course, the stellar accommodations at the Four Seasons Hotel and impeccable service pretty much guarantees a return visit to the Cresent City. Happy travels!
Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in several major publications around the world, including The LA Times, The SF Examiner, The Asia Times, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Daily Journal and The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, among many, many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com
