The Unquestionable Value of Oceania Cruise’s Immersive Itineraries
Often when taking luxury cruises, guests, including myself, wish to spend more time in port than the usual one-day to more fully explore a region and to take a deeper cultural or culinary dive. Oceania Cruise’s not only listened to guests’ desires, but also took definitive action with several itineraries that do precisely that.
In March I embarked on the stunning Allura, Oceania’s 1200-passenger, newest and eighth member of her fleet, for a two-week voyage commencing in Miami, making an all day stop in Charleston, SC, followed by two full days and an overnight in historic Norfork, VA, then two full days and an overnight in Bermuda, and finally three full days in the Bahamas, before returning to Miami. Interspersed were five sea days to relax and regroup in between these interesting ports of call and overnights, and of course to take advantage of the many onboard offerings of the Allura, several of which enhanced the destinations visited.
This particular itinerary was made even better as the ports of call could accommodate the Allura without requiring tendering. So off the ship guests walked and often into the very heart of the destination.
Charming Charleston
The Allura docked two blocks from Charleston’s historic King Street. One of the great things about Charleston is that foodies, history buffs, architecture aficionados, and retail therapy seekers will all find happiness. Close to the Visitor’s Center, The Charleston Museum is a good place to start for a historical overview of the city. There are huge skeletons of the American buffalo, giant low country crocodiles, and other unusual species, including the giant ground sloth, and the world’s largest flying bird – the extinct Pelagornis. Also, several species of mammals and birds excellently preserved in taxidermy.
Fortunately for me, Charleston is home to an extremely vibrant food scene. Since one can never truly experience a city without tasting it, I popped into Miller’s All Day. Here chef Nathan Thurston partnered with farmer Greg Johnsman creating a marvelous Southern comfort brunch-centric restaurant at the top of King Street. Thurston and his team prepare fantastic traditional Southern fare, albeit a bit healthier, as not overusing salt, sugar, or fat, while utilizing Johnsman’s farm fresh produce. The result is a heavenly, Southern made marriage.
Arriving hungry is crucial as portion control is not a thing in the South. Dining at Miller’s will likely be the day’s only sustenance. Devouring a warm, aromatic cinnamon roll with a massive dollop of whipped icing was swoon-worthy. Followed was the day’s special – and ultimate comfort food – the “Mad Loaded Biscuit,” where tender fried chicken and thinly sliced, pan-fried country ham topped with scrambled eggs, graced with a mustard velouté and finely chopped vegetables, all within the best buttermilk biscuit in the free world.
To better understand the South’s complex history, at the Old Slave Mart Museum I stood in the actual “showroom” where traders sold, and buyers bought American blacks born into slavery. The domestic slave trade continued even as the northern states commenced banning importation of enslaved Africans in 1786. While Congress ended the importation in 1807 making it a federal crime, the national slave market only ceased with the Civil War’s 1865 end. Despite its federal criminal status, approximately 250,000 Africans were smuggled into the U.S. between 1808 and 1860.
At the Gibbs Art Museum, there are portraits by Jeremiah Theus, known for painting gentry in the early 18th century. There were also interesting pieces in the social realism gallery from the 1930s and 40s. Strolling in biscuit bliss hours later, I waddled back to the ship in the early evening while dreaming of the Tranquility mattress, 1,000-count sheets, and 60-inch flat screen television awaiting me in my calm-inspired stateroom; my preferred form of “Southern Comfort.” The risk was real that I would order room service when I became peckish at midnight, selecting something from Allura’s revitalized menu. A chicken Caesar salad did the trick.
Norfolk: Nirvana for Naval Enthusiasts
On the shores of the Elizabeth River, and dubbed Mermaid City, Norfolk was purchased in 1682 as a port from Nicolas Wise, Jr., for 10,000 pounds of barrel-aged tobacco and fuses maritime history and heritage with the arts and the ease of walkability. Right next to Allura’s docking and defining Norfolk’s skyline, the storied 887-foot-long battleship USS Wisconsin is berthed, serving as gatekeeper for Norfolk’s nautical identity.
Here for the first time and for two full days, I joined an Oceania Art & History excursion to get my bearings. Heading first to the MacArthur Memorial Visitors Museum built in 1850 in the former City Hall and courthouse, we viewed a 30-minute film containing a mélange of original news clippings and commentary, the magnitude of which made one of America’s greatest generals spring to life. At once, protector, liberator, conqueror, defender, frontiersman, patriot, and scholar, historians have well-preserved MacArthur’s undeniable legacy. The museum holds a plethora of wartime paraphernalia, including his 1950 Chrysler Crown limousine while MacArthur and his wife Jean are entombed in an adjacent building.
Driving along Mowbray Avenue in Norfolk’s 1890’s Ghent neighborhood appears as the Belgian town after which it’s named. Replete with 20th century architecture, including Queen Anne, Tudor, and Colonial Revival styles, it’s elegantly stately.
At the Chrysler Museum, in addition to Warhols and Pollocks, there was an incredible wing of glass objects d’art: Roman, Venetian, Dutch, Scandinavian, and Persian, and perhaps the world’s most exquisite Judeo-Christian lamp-worked figurine chess set made by Gianni Toso. It was so intricately detailed, and spectacular, I overheard several guests discussing it days later. The Chrysler is also home to one of Antonio Santin’s eye-bending, carpet paintings. Since Allura was overnighting here, guests were able to walk over to the Waterside District in the evening to enjoy the multitude of bars, bites, and jumbo flat-screen televisions playing every conceivable sport in a lively atmosphere.
As we had another full day, I hopped on the public ferry for the 15-minute ride to Portsmouth. At the ferry’s exit is the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Museum, the nation’s oldest, dating to the colonial era, with exhibits telling the huge roll Portsmouth played in building the U.S. Navy and bringing it to the nuclear age.
Olde Town is flat and pleasantly walkable. It includes the oldest operating Naval Hospital, the U.S.’s first operational dry dock facility, some terrific antique shops, several architecturally significant homes, churches, and a 1917 synagogue built by Eastern European immigrants seeking relief from religious persecution who then significantly contributed economically and culturally to the region.
Beautiful Bermuda
A restful sea day was spent listening to an excellent onboard lecture by historian Brian Unger on the facts, myths, and legends of the infamous Bermuda Triangle, decadant afternoon tea at Horizon’s, an obligatory stint in the state-of-the-art fitness center followed by a marvelous dinner at speciality restaurant Jacques of escargots, and a 12-ounce ribeye so tender my knife nearly remained idle.
Arriving at Bermuda’s Royal Naval Dockyard to sunny, 80-degree weather, two new shipboard friends and I hopped onto a local bus viewing stunning vistas towards Horseshoe Bay, arguably one of the world’s most glorious beaches with interesting rock formations and crystalline, multi-colored, turquoise hues.
After snorkeling and sunning, we rode in view of candy-colored painted structures en route to Hamilton, Bermuda’s capital, where red British phone cabins can still be seen. With 121 islands in this coral-capped archipelago, only seven are inhabited. The main island with about 65,000 inhabitants, is divided into nine parishes, with a whopping 141 churches and Hamilton is home to the western hemisphere’s oldest church, St. Peter’s, built in 1612.
As often happens here, the next day the weather turned with gale force winds and cloudy skies. My e-bike excursion was cancelled, but the day turned out fantastically as I jumped on another excursion that turned out to be a voyage highlight, the Crystal Caves.
Over two million years old with limestone stalactites and stalagmites that can be seen by an 83-step descent on a floating trail to view the exquisite formations. Discovered March 3, 1907, as a now famous cricket ball went astray and slipped through a small opening. While never found, the quest to locate it led to the cave’s discovery. One of the first visitors in 1908 was Mark Twain, and in 1914, Universal produced the film “Neptune’s Mermaid,” featuring Australian champion swimmer Annette Kellerman. Portraying a mermaid, she pleaded with the Sea Witch to make her mortal. In reality, Kellerman herself became immortal when arrested for indecent exposure at Boston’s River Beach while donning a skirt-less, one-piece bathing suit.
No trip to Bermuda would be complete without sampling a delicious Bermuda fish sandwich on toasted raisin bead served with coleslaw at Frog & Onion. Opened in in a historic building by a Frenchman (the frog) and a Bermudan (the onion), it’s a stone’s throw from the dock.
Balmy Bahamas
Following two relaxing sea days, another lecture by Ungar on Bahamian history, the Allura arrived at Freeport. An excursion that day took us to Pirate’s Cove Beach Club on a wide beach with loungers, umbrellas, volleyball, zip-lining, SUPs, kayaks, and local BBQ.
The next two full days and overnight, Allura docked in Nassau. At port is the Museum of Junkanoo with Bahamian cultural and historical displays. Five minutes away is the Straw Market with all manner of souvenirs. A block beyond is the Pirates of Nassau Museum.
Nearby at the Central Bank of the Bahamas is the William C. Allen Gallery upstairs housing a marvelous collection of young island talent. The exhibit changes about every six weeks.
Here too is perhaps the world’s only Barbie-pink Supreme Court building. Afterwards, we enjoyed the nearby public beach with loungers to rent and plentiful bars to enjoy sunset, Bahama Mamas – sweet rum concoctions – and citrus marinated conch salad, a local staple.
Walking over the Sidney Poitier Bridge to Paradise Island’s Atlantis Resort complex with five hotels and 40 restaurants rises like a Phoenix complete with billionaire yachts, and Crystal Cove shopping arcade containing all manner of luxury retail shops. The lovely day ended with a respite at Cabbage Beach.
What truly sets Oceania apart, especially on longer voyages, is the ability to allow guests to deeply explore the world while always providing luxurious comfort. Being out in the world enjoying its offerings while preserving the sensation and sentiment of being on a luxury cruise staffed by an extremely hospitable crew is an experience second to none. This explains why the onboard future cruise office is so busy towards the end of each cruise.
