Three Superb Days in Singapore
Arriving to or departing from Singapore’s award-winning Changi Airport is truly a traveler’s Garden of Eden. World class restaurants, shopping, hotels, gardens, spas, salons, swimming pools, and recreational activities, all of which render it hard to leave, but leave one must as an utterly enchanting city-state awaits discovery and for repeat visitors, rediscovery.
Oscar Wilde, in his infinite culinary wisdom, once said, “I hate people who are not serious about meals. It is so shallow of them.” On this point, Singapore is Wilde’s poster child, where the mélange of cultures and cuisines results in a foodie Nirvana. It’s also a place of architectural feats, a political and social scientific success story, and enough shopping to provide retail therapy for even the most discerning addicts.
The Bed
Kempinski Hotels, Europe’s oldest luxury hotel group, operates the ultra-luxury Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore in arguably Singapore’s best location in the lovingly restored Stamford House and Capitol Building. With history dating back to the early 1900s, it has a welcoming lobby, 157 guest rooms and suites, an outdoor saltwater relaxation pool, fitness center and spa, bespoke bar, and 15 Stamford, its signature restaurant helmed by Chef Ron Henderson. Immediately adjacent to the hotel is the Arcade which has dozens of additional restaurants, the iconic Capitol Theatre that seats 970 people with an advanced rotational floor system, and state-of-the-art audio and visual system, and several shops.
Staying in a beautiful and spacious room with a calming, earth tone color scheme, it boasted travertine and gleaming hardwood floors accented by an area rug. The luxurious King size bed had high-count cotton sheets that provided great slumber, while the enveloping soft chenille robes and full-size Nespresso machine ensured morning bliss. Dual nightstands had USB ports and wireless charging stations. The separate seating area had a marble-topped table, and the large working desk reflected engineering genius – a hidden, full-sized lighted makeup vanity mirror.
The large bathroom had a walk-in shower with Ferragamo amenities. A deep soaking bathtub with a 24-inch LED television wall built-in was put to good use after long days. The bathroom also included dual-sinks, granite vanity, and separate Toto WC with all the bells and whistles.
The Meals
Eating in Singapore is no spectator sport but a very serious business. Whether one desires white linen and crystal to go with divine dining, or authentic, local experiences to enjoy.
To get charged for a full day, the breakfast spread at Kempinski’s 15 Stamford is delightful. All manner of fresh fruit, bakery items, yogurt, cereals, charcuterie, an Indian station, an Asian specialty station, and Chinese noodle station, as well as a full made-to-order breakfast menu with both western and Asian entrees, including eggs Benedict, avocado toast, and the critically all-important Singaporean Kaya toast, which is a must have when here. You can thank me later.
At Chinatown’s Complex Hawker Market, there are several hundred stalls of scrumptious cuisine. For a truly unforgettable meal, go upstairs to booth 02-126, Hawker Chan’s stall. He’s a household name here as in 2016 Chan was the first hawker to be awarded a coveted Michelin Star. Try the delectable roasted pork rice and char siu noodles.
A block away from Kempinski is the iconic Raffles Hotel with its classic colonial architecture, and newly refreshed interiors. First head to the Long Bar, the birthplace of the national drink, the Singapore Sling. After tossing the obligatory peanut shells on the floor – without doubt the only place in Singapore where littering is permitted – it was time for dinner.
At Raffles yi – meaning art – by Jereme Leung, the entry way is an ethereal dream of flowing, arched, white flowers, a photo op if ever there was one. We enjoyed excellent service as we traversed various regions of China dining on Chef Leung’s eight-course set menu. While they were nearly too beautifully presented to eat, we succumbed. Standouts were the roasted duck with Kristal caviar and fresh mango, wok-fried Iberico pork with foie gras, and longevity noodles with crab meat and abalone.
At Tekka Centre Market in little India, hawker stalls will provide a fill of traditional biryani and dosa. Afterwards, trek upstairs and engage in more retail therapy to partake in Singapore’s well-established national shopping obsession. Although not one ounce was lost in climbing upstairs, it should count that my wallet was significantly lighter upon departure.
After a busy day, chilled martinis at 15 Stamford were the prelude to a perfect meal of shrimp cocktail and Wagyu tenderloin so flavorful and tender, knives were merely decorative table accessories. There was no room for dessert, but that just meant a return visit was inevitable.
The Finds
First-time visitors to Singapore must head to the National Museum for an excellent historical perspective. The interactive space showcases Singapore’s colonial background and the role of Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819, the Japanese arrival in February 1942, World War II’s impact, and onward to independence in 1965 under Lee Kuan Yew, the brilliant leader who ruled Singapore for 31 years until his 2015 passing.
The Civic District’s former Supreme Court and City Hall, both national monuments built in neoclassical style with Corinthian columns and Bas- relief panels, have been exquisitely restored and turned into the National Gallery Singapore, home to the world’s largest public collection of Singaporean and Southeast Asian modern art. Many pieces beautifully depict 19th and 20th-century life in the region. Excellent docent-led building tours explain details such as the teak ceiling distinctively carved to look like my personal bliss, a chocolate bar.
Set on 250 acres of reclamation land near the Marina reservoir, Gardens by the Bay nature park includes the magnificent Flower Dome and Cloud Forest. Here the world’s largest glass greenhouse houses plant life from around the world, contains the world’s second tallest indoor waterfall – the world’s tallest is at Changi Airport – 16-story super trees and 1,000-year-old olive trees. It’s also a reminder that Singapore is a sustainability showcase: over 47% of the island is covered in greenery and it’s one of the world’s 20 most carbon efficient countries.
Adjacent to the Capital Kempinski is Funan Mall offering five indoor levels with several dozen eateries for every possible taste and a cooking studio. There is also a great selection of lifestyle shops, including acupuncture, hairstylists for men and women, and salons offering all manner of spa, beauty, and dental treatments.
In case it’s raining, Raffles City Mall which can also be reached from an underground path adjacent to the MRT, Singapore’s spotless metro, where, if you pause or look perplexed for even a moment, a kind MRT employee will advance to assist you. At City Mall upscale shops such as Chanel, Givenchy, Gucci, and Armani on several floors compete with Medi-spas offering facials and cosmeceutical injectables.
At the top of Orchard Road, Singapore’s most famous boulevard for retail therapy, is Ion Mall, another retail haven. En route you’ll want to pop into Dors with colorful clothing and lovely gift items from Singapore, Vietnam, and Malaysia, many of which are made by artists with autism who earn income from retail purchases.
After all the culture, shopping, and dining, a great respite is the Kempinski Spa where talented masseuses will rejuvenate your body and mind anew.
The Lesson Learned
Singapore may be the only place in the world where littering, jaywalking, and chewing gum are illegal. It is also incredibly safe 24/7 for both locals and visitors alike. It is also unique in that its mélange of cultures – Chinese, Malay, Indians, and others – coexist amongst each other peacefully. A dreamy clarion call for other city-states and nations.
What has resulted in Singapore in its myriad form is the genius legacy of its former beloved and savvy leader Lee Kuan Yew. Not to mention that according to 2023 statistics, Singapore has nearly 100,000 restaurants. This is a gastronomic reminder of George Bernard Shaw’s wise words, “There is no love sincerer than the love of food.” Indeed. Happy travels!
