A Model For Change: Vietnam’s Continuing Optimistic Transformation
Traveling to Vietnam for many evokes a wide range of emotions. For some U.S. veterans, especially in the early days of tourism commencing in the mid-1990s, it was about reconciliation of war-time memories and resulting, ensuing emotions. For others in the years that followed, it has been about discovering a vibrant, geographically lovely country with excellent cuisine and a culture committed to entrepreneurial market socialism, family, and community.
Coming of age in the early 80’s, the Vietnam War was never far from one’s consciousness. First visiting Vietnam in 2006 with my then young daughter in tow, I marveled at the intensely warm welcome received everywhere we visited, from the Mekong Delta in the south to the tiny hillside villages in Sapa in the north. Recalling discussions of the Vietnam War with local guides, I remember then being so surprised that they universally referred to it as the ‘American War,’ which of course for them it was.
Returning 10 years later with my husband, progress and modernization continued, tourism was flourishing, and warm hospitality was ever present. Earlier this month, a week after the 50th anniversary of the Vietnam War’s end, I found myself back in Vietnam, dovetailing on the cusp of monumental change. This time my own. The young child had become a physician and had naturally flown the proverbial coop to greener pastures. A fluke yet tragic accident required months of rehabilitative recovery, and my once wonderful, long-term marriage had abruptly ended. I now needed to more carefully reexamine the country that epitomized the mother of reinvention to best chart my own.
Feeling as though the Darwinian struggles of the Serengeti were looking positively pleasant in comparison to my own, while understanding that complete distraction is often the greatest antidote to agony, I joined bespoke luxury travel outfitter Black Tomato for a 10-day deep dive through the marvels of central Vietnam. It may have been a tall ask as a countermeasure, but turned out to be a brilliant decision.
Vietnam’s Heirloom That is Huê’
Flying into Da Nang we drove to Huê’, Vietnam’s former imperial and culinary capital. Staying at the historic, centrally located, and lovely Azerai La Residence on the Perfume River, floating above it were festive, enormous Barbie-pink lotus flowers in celebration of Buddha’s upcoming birthday. It seemed a bright harbinger of good things to come.
With our charming local guide whose passion for and knowledge of his native land was vast, away from the city center we walked off-the-beaten path on a narrow, one-lane country alleyway to Quán Bánh O Lé, once visited by Anthony Bourdain and where a third generation of dumpling makers ply their delectable trade using rice paper paste and shrimp. We learned to make them under our host’s skilled eye, and although our concoctions didn’t resemble the perfection of our teacher’s culinary mastery, they were delicious.
So fortified we arrived to Khai Dinh Mausoleum just before sunset and had the hilltop to ourselves away from the mid-day heat. Here Dihn’s remains rest in a sanctuary with gorgeous tile work just below a bronze statue cast in 1922 by French sculptor Paul Ducing.
The following day cruising the countryside on a seven-mile ride to Pho Trach on Trek bicycles, mid-ride we paused, when seemingly right out of a Hollywood central casting call, a conical-hatted man appeared in a verdant field with his water buffalo herd and calf for their bovid mid-day munch.
At ancient Phuoc Tich, 25-miles to Huê’s north, Feng Shui principals have guided the traditional wooden houses and gardens where cicadas loudly screeched their presence in this 500-year-old village by the O Lau River. Pottery, once this village’s economic mainstay, is still produced by a handful of families. Enjoying afternoon tea at the home of an elderly language professor, his wife happened to be celebrating her 75th birthday in the company of a half-dozen posse of similarly aged matriarchs. The professor decided that fermented, potent rice liquor should wet our collective whistles, naturally in the spirit of cultural exchange. The camaraderie displayed by these women in celebration of a milestone of one of their own, reflected the deep-rooted blessings of Vietnamese community.
That evening at an enormous, traditional riverfront residence, Ben Xuan, fit for the cover of Asian Home & Garden, we experienced a culinary and music journey complete with Đàn bầu– a monochord Zither and Vietnam’s only indigenous instrument – and were serenaded in Vietnamese, French, and English by the residence owner, a royal family descendant with an ethereally angelic voice.
Our time in Huê’ ended with a magical sunrise visit prior to its daily public opening at the UNESCO world heritage site Citadel and Forbidden City. One hundred buildings, shrines, and gardens sit on 100-acres facing the Perfume River. Just near the entrance, hundreds of Vietnamese women in body-hugging leotards engaged in Jane Fonda-style aerobics classes beating to disco-era tunes. It’s a daily, cardio-communal sight of synergistic sweat and sound, delivering a rich visual dichotomy of past and present.
In the Heat of Hoi An’s Harmony
Hoi An, the preserved marvel of the 15th to 19th-century Asian trading port, has maintained its traditional wooden architecture along the Thu Bon River complete with lanterned quays, canals, and bridges. A festive atmosphere reigns supreme as travelers take small wooden boats to release lit lanterns into the river imparting wishes for the future. This for me was particularly poignant and apropos.
Donning the charming walk streets are art galleries aplenty, cafés, bars, and shops where talented tailors produce fine custom clothing in hours swiftly delivered to hotels anywhere in country or easily and quickly shipped directly home.
We hung our conical hats at the newly opened Namia River Retreat, an architectural marvel with 60 exquisite villas each boasting private pools fronting the Thu Bon River. At its tranquil riverfront Lumina Spa with two traditional apothecaries focusing on ancient remedies, a woman half my size yet 10 times stronger, delivered a 60-minute Vietnamese massage followed by 30-minutes of cupping, that was not only stress reducing and therapeutic, but also so rejuvenating it somehow left me with new ideas for forward movement.
A food tour with our trusty guide brought us to the home and attached business where eight generations have been continuously making white rose dumplings and crispy won ton, that locals have dubbed ‘Hoi An pizza.’ While Chicagoans might balk at the slang, the “pizza” was a marvelous mélange of savory crunch and chopped tomato goodness. Next stop, a tiny store front that prepared, by orders of magnitude, the finest Banh Mi ever tasted with pork, chicken, ham, pâté, egg, papaya, and vegetables. Our guide wanted to take us next for local specialty Cao lo noodles, but we could eat no more, instead opting to plunge in our private pools to escape the evening heat.
Driving to Da Nang another day we boarded The Vietage by Anantara, a luxury train to coastal Quy Nhon. The 12-passenger carriage exudes the romance of rail travel with well-trained waiters, mixologist, artisanal tea expert, good wine selection, amenity kits, strong WiFi, and includes breakfast and a delicious, several course lunch. The pièce de résistance: a skilled wellness therapist in a dedicated treatment room providing complimentary neck and shoulder massages as we traversed the colorful countryside. Six hours later, I didn’t want to disembark, despite looking forward to Bãi San Hô.
Finding One’s Bliss at Bãi San Hô
Arriving to Zannier Hotels Bãi San Hô, it became immediately clear that this was no ordinary beachfront oasis, but a restorative, rejuvenating slice of Eden that would act as a soothing balm as I pondered my unexpected third act. Located in Phu Yen – a charming province on Vietnam’s south-central coast – on nearly 300-acres, it’s characterized by beautiful mountains, lush greenery, and magnificent beaches.
There are 73 beachfront, grand bay, rice paddy, and hilltop villas. Staying in a secluded 650-square feet beachfront villa, it boasted natural wood floors, canopied king-sized bed, large working desk, seating areas with cushioned, rattan furnishings, the critically important Nespresso machine, and stocked mini-bar. Curated by creative wunderkind Arnaud Zannier, its design perfectly sourced with Vietnamese artisan pieces pays homage to Vietnam’s cultural heritage, while inherently sensitive to and fulfilling the needs of the most sophisticated international travelers.
Inside an enormous bathroom with every bell and whistle including a deep soaking tub, and outside a stone shower was suitable for 10. The covered outdoor patio’s L-shaped sofa was perfect for napping and had a separate dining area if one wanted room service. This fronted a large, private pool with loungers facing the glorious South China Sea, and a private tiki hut with two more loungers, all of which created the sweetest of dreams while awake.
With dining that kissed one’s soul, impeccable service, and cultural experiences including local markets, trades, and fishing village luncheons, water sports, tennis, hikes, an excellent fitness center and restorative Hoa Sen Spa, all meant one could culturally dive deep or laze as desired. Zannier Bãi San Hô is a place to return to. Repeatedly.
Heading Onward and Better
Staying at the glorious, centrally located Park Hyatt Saigon in this vibrant city, motorcycles reign supreme while defying all of Newton’s laws of gravity. Engaging in a bit of retail therapy before commencing my homeward journey for a spell before my next assignment, I contemplated with reverence Black Tomato’s deep comprehension that sometimes, “You may not know where you want to go, but you know how you want to feel.”
One thing is certain, taking an adventurous journey with Black Tomato will allow focus on the powerful emotions that only travel can evoke, granting perhaps the greatest gift of all: the renewing, restorative reward of wonder and joy, all while sating one’s curiosity of this glorious universe we mere mortals temporarily call home.
Just as Vietnam continues its committed path forward from colonization and lengthy wars to fruitful independence, following this journey thoroughly renewed, I too possessed a new and bright path onward to peacefully forge ahead. Happy travels!
Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in major publications around the world, including The L.A. Times, The S.F. Examiner, The Asia Times, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, The Daily Journal, among many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com
