Three Perfect Days in Munich
When Munich comes to mind, many think of Oktoberfest and its famous Hofbrauhaus. However, there is so much more to this Bavarian capital than great beer, delicious sausage, and chicken dances. If marvelous architecture, the arts, great food, and culture float your boat, you will feel right at home in Munich. Also, since about 30-percent of its residents are expatriates, it also boasts a dynamically multicultural environment.
The Bed
If you are looking to stay at a hotel steeped in history and perfectly located a stone’s throw from the famed Marienplatz, Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski is the place. German for four seasons, the beautiful old building was constructed in a grand European style. Originally commissioned by Bavaria’s King Maximilian II in 1858, its expansive lobby with burgundy marble stairs and massive atrium boasts stained glass lighting depicting the four seasons. The front desk’s gleaming woods and marble façade above which a hand-stitched tapestry on loan from the Bavarian royal family hangs, ensures that history is never far away. Rebuilt after WWII, the hotel blissfully weds its glorious past with every conceivable modern convenience.
Hallways are adorned with sculpted archways and Corinthian columns while both hallways and guest rooms have wallpaper mural reproductions of classical European paintings from the old masters courtesy of the Alte Pinakothek Museum.
Hanging my hat in a Junior Suite containing a spacious 441 square feet, the living room had a comfortable seating area, large working desk, 60-inch flatscreen TV, beautiful lighting, dining table, minibar, and happily for me, a Nespresso machine. The bedroom boasted a king size bed with padded leather platform and headboard, another 60-inch flatscreen TV, and ample closet space. Both the living room and bedroom had marvelous full wall murals.
The large dual-vanity bathroom had the most advanced Toto apparatus, a bidet, large walk-in shower with both an oversized rain and European shower heads, towel heaters, lighted makeup mirror and Salvatore Ferragamo amenities.
Kempinski’s Jahreszeiten Bar provides excellent people watching, where the drink of choice is the pear martini. Cigar connoisseurs will enjoy Kempinski’s cigar lounge by Zechbauer. Outfitted with a high-tech air filtration system, it’s so effective that when I stopped in this luxurious space, it was completely odorless despite that all tables were occupied.
For those wishing to engage in retail therapy, in front of the lobby is the Krigler Perfume House established in 1904. While shopping there you can reminisce in the company of classic photos of John F. and Jacqueline Kennedy, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and other notables who have worn these scents. If you’re in need of other high-end items, Gucci is next door and Celine and Cartier are across the street.
The Meals
Kempinski’s breakfast buffet pretty much ensures you probably won’t be eating lunch with a full array of fresh fruits, including out of season delights such as mango, a bakery section to make running a marathon immediately possible, all manner of German sausages, charcuterie, and cheeses, complemented with a full menu, including eggs Benedict and avocado toast.
At Schwarzreiter Tagesbar overlooking the elegant Maximilianstraße, Executive Chef Franz-Josep Unterlechner definitely would have made Maximilian II’s son, gourmand Ludwig II, very proud indeed. The tuna tartar with leeks and ponzu vinaigrette was outstanding and the grilled gnocchi with Muscat pumpkin and gorgonzola dolce nearly made me weep with joy.
To dine on typical Bavarian fare, think schnitzel, spätzle, and bratwurst, set in a lovely 19th century building with Neo-Gothic interior and detailed wall murals framed by coved archways, head over to Der Ratskeller München in the Marienplatz. It also has vegetarian and vegan options; the avocado and tomato tartar with tatsoi salad was delightful. Another terrific place for great schnitzel is Weinhaus Neuner also boasting an expansive international wine list.
Although there is truly no such thing as too much schnitzel, variety is indeed the spice of life. Thus, whenever in a city that houses a NENI Restaurant – there are 13 in Europe – I make it point to dine there because a life without the mélange of Israeli, Romanian, and Spanish cuisine, is simply not one worth living. Anything NENI grills is mouthwatering, but I always end up with the Jerusalem Plate with spiced chicken and make sure my dining partner orders the Wagyu beef and lamb kebab. Save room for the delectable house made sesame halvah ice cream. You can thank me later.
The Finds
Since 1158 the Marienplatz has been the city’s most prominent public square and later its social hub. Central to it is the Marien column erected in 1638 in honor of the Swedish occupation’s end and the famous 1908 Glockenspiel. Its life-sized figures and 43 bells ring twice daily illustrating two 16th century Munich events – the royal marriage of Duke Wilhelm V and Renato of Lorraine, and a dance commemorating the end of a plague.
A short stroll from Marienplatz on Fraunhoferstraße is Viktualiemarkt with food stalls, beer gardens, and souvenirs. There are also a half dozen fountain monuments in tribute to Munich personalities, including Bavarian comedian and silent film star Karl Valentin.
A 10-minute walk from the Marienplatz is the private Asam Church. Dedicated to St. Nepomuk, it was built in late style Bavarian Baroque between 1733 and 1746 by Italian trained artist brothers Cosmos Damien Asam and Egid Quirin Asam. While only 66 feet deep by 24 feet wide, don’t let its small size fool you. It’s as impressive as the two enormous rocks embedded at the entrance, and the amount of stucco and ornamentation in such a small footprint will take your breath away. Right next door is Asamhaus, a Baroque four-story residential palace with a façade of intricate stucco and statues.
Down the street from the Kempinski is Residenz München. Between 1508 and 1918 it was the principal palace and seat of government of Bavarian rulers from the House of Wittelsbach, but since 1920 the Residenz has been open to the public as a museum. There are 130 rooms on display spanning the Renaissance, early Baroque, Rococo and Neo-classical periods. Its ancestral gallery has over 100 portraits of Wittelsbach family members and their consorts in impressive gold-gilded, carved frames. Each room has magnificent art, lavishly appointed furnishings, intricately carved grandfather clocks, detailed tapestries, and the finest porcelain. The upstairs music room containing a giraffe frame spinet piano and trifecta of harps is especially unusual. There’s also a small collection of Wujin black porcelain – its glaze made from cobalt, iron, and manganese.
Joggers, walkers, and lollygaggers will want to head over to the English Garden. Larger than NYC’s Central Park, the English Garden has nearly 50-miles of jogging paths. Alternatively, Kempinski’s fitness center has floor-to-ceiling windows, TechnoGym machines, and free weights. After all that exercising, you’ll want to pop into The Spa at Kempinski. Here I had a relaxing massage in a calming, peaceful atmosphere. The Spa also has a sauna, steam room, heated indoor pool, a full array of facials, scrubs, nail services for both men and women, and a picturesque outdoor deck with loungers.
German car aficionados and anyone who like me drools over shiny, fast things, will want to visit the BMW Welt and salivate over the latest BMWs and Rolls-Royce models set in an architecturally significant modern structure. Next door is the BMW Museum where visitors learn the history of these iconic brands. The Welt also doubles as a concert venue and on Saturdays has pop up yoga. It’s a quick 15-minute fide from Munich’s Hauptbahnhof – main train station – exit Olympiazentrum. Note however that both the Welt and museum will both be closed for renovations from January 7, 2025 to February 10, 2025.
The Lessons Learned
There is much to love about a sojourn in Munich. Whether you stay three days or three weeks, this captivating capital of Bavaria will make you wish to never say auf wiedersehen. However, once you leave, you’ll most likely start plotting your return visit especially if the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski will be your home away from home.
Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in several major publications around the world, including The LA Times, The SF Examiner, The Asia Times, U.S. News & World Report, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Daily Journal and The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, among many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com.
