A Nation More Sea Than Land
When one thinks of the Maldives, one thinks of cerulean, blue, bathtub-warm Indian Ocean waters, bountiful marine flora and fauna, and swaying palms. All of which are abundantly true.
In 1957-58 Viennese-born Austrian biologist, diving pioneer and underwater photographer extraordinaire, Dr. Hans Hass, best known for his documentary underwater films, was one of the first to document the Maldives’ marvels. Hass undertook the arduous expedition aboard his research ship Xarifa. Several television shows for British and German television followed and many books, including, “The Expedition into the Unknown,” all of which shared this region with the world.
Located about 470 miles from the Asian continent’s mainland, the Maldives consists of 1,192 coral islands, of which only 198 are habited. Grouped in a double helix chain of 26 atolls, it’s Asia’s smallest country, one of the world’s most geographically dispersed sovereign states, and one where the official religion is Sunni Islam.
Following its 1965 independence from the United Kingdom, despite the fits and starts of modernization, political instability, efforts at democratic reforms and climate change causing environmental challenges, the Maldives has developed tourism. Indeed, today the Maldives is almost completely dependent on tourism: accounting for 28-percent of Maldivian GDP, while over 90-percent of government tax revenues are derived from import duties and tourism-related taxes. Fishing is the only other significant industry at under 10-percent of GDP.
That near total dependency made the Maldivian government’s June announcement instituting a blanket ban on entry by Israeli passport holders even more stunning. Following a swift international uproar, the blanket ban was slightly walked back as it would have also banned Israeli Arab Muslims and Israeli Palestinian Christians from Maldives travel, since they too travel on Israeli passports.
It has not been made clear how the ban would be enforced upon attempted entry by an Israeli passport holder. Would there be a religion test? A required affidavit of non-Jewish status at the airport? Though I’m fortunate to possess two passports – neither of which is Israeli – I was and remain offended that any visitor would be banned due to a war following documented terrorist activity resulting in civilian deaths or the political policy of their birth country. (I said precisely that in a 2017 article when the U.S. banned travelers from seven Muslim countries.) With some trepidation, I forged ahead and visited the Maldives.
I’m happy to report that my Maldivian travel experience was positive in that I never once felt compromised. That may be since the islands where resorts are located are wholly self-contained mini universes – completely unconcerned with the outside world – and employ workers of many nationalities, mainly Indian, Sri Lankan, Indonesian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani, all of whom were kind and hospitable. Keep in mind that the experiences on the ground are often far different than the law’s black letter. That said, wearing religious jewelry or engaging in public displays of affection is ill-advised.
The Bounty of Baros
Designed by Mohammed Shafeeq, this 75-villa resort island is only 25-minutes by speedboat from Malé’s Velana International Airport. Originally a coconut plantation, Baros opened as a resort in 1973 and has been continuously updated. This lush, verdant isle which can be walked around in 15-minutes, has 251 employees hailing from all over Asia. Its proximity to Malé is an attribute, however, city lights are visible on the horizon, slightly distracting from the escapist, Robinson Crusoe luxury vibe.
My spherical overwater villa had gleaming hardwood floors, accented with light wood furnishings, a king-sized bed, large day bed and forever views. The Nespresso machine and stocked minibar completed the main area.
The dual vanity granite bathroom had environmentally-friendly Acqua di Parma amenities, sea-facing bathtub, and separate walk-in shower also providing deck access.
The sapphire blue mini-tile infinity pool mimicked the Indian Ocean’s colorful splendor. Two loungers, another daybed, and dining table completed the deck. From here access was direct to the mesmerizing Indian Ocean.
Food, Fitness, and Wellness
Lovely breakfast buffets at Cayenne Grill had every conceivable option, including made-to-order items that made mornings joyful. At Lime Restaurant, a comprehensive menu of continental, Thai, Indian, and Levant specialties made lunch and dinner a travel dining pleasure, while the island’s hydroponic garden ensured the freshest greens and herbs. At the Lighthouse, the Maldives first two-story overwater restaurant, we enjoyed a sublime meal of foie gras, one of the most flavorful Wagyu steaks I’ve tasted and decadent chocolate soufflé.
From a culinary standpoint at Baros, the options were nearly endless and truly nothing Botswanan Executive Chef Gundu couldn’t deliciously conjure up. Happily for my waistline, the gym had Pre-Cor ellipticals, treadmills, weight machines, and free weights to counter my super stealth eating skills.
More exercise followed with spectacular snorkeling just in front of Sails Bar where the house reef provided a watery wonderland replete with a multitude of black-tip and white-tip sharks. Given the magnitude of surrounding fish of every imaginable color and variety, I wasn’t too concerned at the prospect of being selected as an entree for a shark smorgasbord. Baros also has several marine biologists on hand eager to share their knowledge of Maldives underwater largess.
At Serenity Spa, there’s daily yoga, and calming, verdant, Zen-inspired spa suites. Here my treatment by a Balinese masseuse was so fantastic, I immediately scheduled another one. It was, as excellent as the first.
Atop Sails Bar, a mini Maldivian museum had an excellent relief map to get one’s atoll and island bearings, some antique maps and a few traditional Maldivian items: jewelry box, weaving tool, book stand, and mixing bowls.
The Magic of Milaidhoo
The 30-minute DHC-6 twin otter seaplane ride from Malé to the jetty near Milaidhoo, is arguably one of the world’s most scenic rides with palm fringed islands rising like Phoenix’s seemingly haphazardly from the Indian Ocean floor. After a five-minute boat ride, we arrived at this luxury resort in the S. Baa Atoll, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
Opened in late 2016, also designed by architect Shafeeq, Milaidhoo has 50 villas, all with private pools, that exude their motto of understated “barefoot luxury.” With over 220 staff representing a veritable UN, this enviable guest-to-employee ratio, allows for impeccable service and is a romantic haven.
Staying in a massive beachfront villa on the island’s sunrise side, beautiful hexagon wood floors complemented the foyer and main areas. The luscious king-size bed with high-count sheets made slumber dreamy while the Nespresso machine, indoor double daybed, and lounger ensured delightful mornings. Turquoise pops of color paid homage to the sea. The walk-in dressing area was large enough to live there permanently.
The enormous circular bathroom was perfection. Boasting sea foam blue-and-white tile floors, two-person free-standing bathtub, two-person walk-in shower, and dual vanities comprised the main bathroom. Beyond, a glass door leading to a massive outdoor stone shower, because well, bathing choices matter.
Outside an outdoor dining area and daybed swing beckoned. There was also a stationary daybed, an ocean-facing swimming pool, another outdoor shower, two loungers under a thatched-roofed umbrella, and the glorious Indian Ocean with all its marvels hiding in plain sight just below the surface.
Serious Snorkeling
Though PADI-certified for years, snorkeling here is so rich, so like being ceremoniously dropped into a seriously crowded aquarium, that scuba diving really wasn’t necessary. Close to Hanifaru Bay, with its own coral reef encircling the island, provided utterly intoxicating snorkeling in balmy, crystalline, turquoise waters, feet from the shoreline.
Indeed, on one snorkeling venture near Dhonfanu Reef, 15-minutes from Milaidhoo, I counted several mantas, a half-dozen turtles – both hawksbill and green sea – while equipment-laden divers were just 10-feet below us admiring the same sea spectacle.
In front of my villa, countless colorful species of fish swam with us, while more turtles lollygagged in a seemingly dream-like state.
Following another epic snorkeling adventure, we were dropped off at a sandbar for lunch expecting a picnic basket. Instead, a waiting cook with a grill prepared a six-star lunch of sushi, tropical salads, lobsters, prawns, ahi, and lamb chops, served by a waiter who kept our glasses filled with chilled Rosè. It seemed hallucinatory: great food and wine on a 60-by 30-foot mirage-like sandbar, in the middle of the Indian Ocean with nothing but sky, sand, and water for company.
Cuisine for Connoisseurs
The breakfast buffet at Ocean Restaurant was one of the best I’d seen anywhere. In addition to Indian, Asian, Levant, Maldivian, continental items and a complete made-to-order menu, there were cheese, sashimi and sushi stations, six types of yogurts and nine types of milk! Plus, a bakery section to make a French patisserie owner turn green with envy.
One evening we joined Milaidhoo’s sommelier in its cave with over 2,000 bottles. Here we enjoyed several great wines from around the world among guests hailing from New York, Nuremburg, Hawaii, Edinburgh, and Mauritius’ Port Louis.
At Shoreline Grill with our toes planted in the sand, we had a memorable meal of ahi starters, miso cod, and Illy coffee ice cream in utterly perfect surroundings.
Another evening we were entertained with cutlery and culinary acrobatics at the Teppanyaki Grill. (Note to Benihana, take lessons here.) Marvelous sushi, miso soup, the tenderest wagyu and fried rice were all divine.
At the overwater Ba’theli, Chef Saji prepared a lovely traditional Maldivian meal of whitefish soup and delicious fish curry. After dinner entertainment was provided by Mother Nature herself with dozens of lemon sharks and mantas meandering about in a playful ballet-like dance.
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In choosing where to travel, travelers must consider their passports, their lifestyles and their sensibilities. It’s true the Maldives has unparalleled marine life, geography, accommodations, and cuisine. And as Maya Angelou once said, “Perhaps travel can’t prevent bigotry but… it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends.”
Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in several major publications around the world, including The LA Times, The SF Examiner, The Asia Times, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Daily Journal and The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, among many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com.
