Eating Egypt: The Best Food in the Best Settings
Trying to talk the whole of Egypt into just one article would be crazy. This vast country has such a mixture of cultures that there are enough national dishes alone to fill several blog posts! So for this one, I’m sticking to the foodie capital – Cairo. It’s absolutely huge, stacked with luxury hotels, and always buzzing with life. Whilst you’re unlikely to find much peace and quiet here, you’ll certainly find staggering architecture, great food and an infectious lust for life.
Somewhere to Lay Your Head
When it comes to places to stay, there are really two ways of doing it. If you’re travelling alone and it makes you feel safer, then a good tip is to book a hotel. If you’re a little braver and want a truly Egyptian experience, then it’s worth looking into staying at a guest house. I chose the latter option and I’m so pleased I did!
The guest house was a slightly cobbled together building, with a very friendly host. My room was richly decorated with a tapestry over the bed and a couple of intricate artworks on the walls. A truly bizarre superstition that I hadn’t come across before, is the tradition of keeping a pair of scissors underneath the pillow. When I arrived at the guesthouse, a cute little pair of embroidery scissors were waiting below the pillow for me. I brought them with me when I ventured back downstairs and my host explained the superstition to me – apparently it’s good luck? So off I went to pop them back under the pillow again!
Dinner at Abou El Sid
The first place on my foodie list was Abou El Sid. This restaurant is raved about by tourists and locals alike, so it seemed like the best place to kick off all the eating I had planned. I arrived at around 7pm and it was already packed, but luckily I was still able to get a table. The decor here really makes up a great deal of the charm, with dark wood carvings, flickering lantern lights and a general air of being dropped around a hundred years back in time.
The food here did not disappoint, I just wish I’d had room for more! Next time I’d be tempted to order a whole load of starters and eat my way around that way. This time I ordered a trio of dips, which were delicious – particularly the Baba Ganoush, which was so silky I could’ve eaten a bucketful. The people next to me had ordered a mixed mezze – it looked incredible but would easily have filled up half a dozen people. Next I had the stuffed pigeon, which is a really traditional dish in Cairo. I chose to have mine stuffed with freekeh, a lovely fluffy grain that is eaten a lot here.
Quick Stop at the Pyramids
Of course, whilst in Egypt you’d be crazy not to visit the pyramids. The Pyramids of Giza are closest to Cairo and are by far the most popular excursion here. After a long night’s sleep, I only had time for the Pyramid of Cheops, which is the largest – after all I had to get back to continue my eating tour! You can get right inside this pyramid and explore the winding narrow passages – quite a reminder of what life must have been like back then.
Lunch at Desoke
Desoke is not quite a secret anymore, but is still frequented more by locals than tourists. This sweet little restaurant is nothing more than a few tables and chairs on the pavement, with a kitchen that’s set back into the wall. The food here is simple, home cooked and very traditional. The recipes have been passed on for generations and the cook is very proud of them. The Molokheya is what I chose for lunch, a delicious stew made with rice, beans and shredded chicken. It’s simple food, but when it’s made with this much love its honestly such a special lunch.
Photo by Dan, Attribution CC BY SA 2.0
Shopping Trip and Dinner Time
I had a mooch around Khan el-Khalili during the afternoon sunshine. This soukh is famous around the world as the place for shopping and, having been established in the 1400s, it’s had plenty of time to earn that reputation. If you move away from the main strip you’ll find some more interesting stalls, including some gorgeous textiles – if have the space in your case they are so worth bringing home.
After an afternoon’s shopping, I made my way to Fasahet Sumaya on a recommendation from my host. This little restaurant is tucked down an alleyway and has just four tables. It is run by a one woman band, who cookes an ever-changing menu depending on what’s available at the market. After my stew at lunchtime I wanted something a little lighter, so opted for a roqaq, a wonderfully flaky pastry stuffed with minced meat. Needless to say, it was a delight!
* Cover photo – Photo by Sigurd Gartmann, Attribution CC BY SA 2.0
