The Satisfaction of a Sojourn in San Antonio
When one thinks of San Antonio, thoughts naturally go to the legendary Alamo, the 18th-century Spanish mission that set the stage for Texas’ 1836 independence from Mexico. However, there is so much more to San Antonio than meets the eye as Texas’ second most populous and the U.S.’ seventh largest city.
Whether you enjoy great hotels, remarkable food, or a notable locale steeped in history and culture that’s coupled with friendly people, you’ll certainly find pleasure in San Antonio.
The Bed
Originally the L. Saddlery building constructed in 1900, the Mokara Hotel & Spa has been lovingly restored and modernized in the heart of San Antonio, a flight of stairs from the famed, picturesque, River Walk. Mokara’s lovely lobby is centered on a large fireplace with comfortable seating. Offered sparkling wine at check-in, we were off to a good start.
The expansive, high-ceiling room had everything needed for a perfect stay. Decorated with modernized, traditional art throughout – providing a distinct sense of place without being overwhelming. A padded headboard made viewing the 65-inch flatscreen television extremely comfortable and the four-post king-size bed with high-count cotton sheets insured restful slumber. Each nightstand had enough outlets and USB ports to keep any tech bro/babe deliriously content.
An enveloping club chair and ottoman graced one corner while the other had a large wood glass-topped working desk. Outside a small furnished balcony allowed admiration of city views. The all-important full-size Nespresso machine, safe, and stocked refrigerator were hidden within an intricately carved credenza.
The generous bathroom was centered on a gloriously, deep, soaking tub with therapeutic eucalyptus bath salts. Besides, how can one not love a hotel that has a Bath Butler who will draw the perfect bath? Fabric wallpaper provided panache while the large granite countertop single sink vanity, travertine floors, lighted make-up mirror, walk-in shower with environmentally conscious KLUR amenities, and separate water closet completed this lovely space. Silky soft Omni robes by Mansfield will likely induce a purchase to take home.
Mokara’s eighth floor fitness center has floor-to-ceiling windows, Precor treadmills, spinning bikes, Stairmasters, free weights, and LifeFitness exercise equipment to undo the caloric intake of San Antonio’s restaurants. Also on eighth floor is the rooftop pool, Jacuzzi, and Sky Cafe & Bar.
The Meals
It must be said that San Antonio is where diets go to die. To prepare for one’s next marathon or even a museum marathon, La Panaderia’s Bakery & Café near Mokara has colorful Mexican conchas and traditional bakery items.
At The Range Steak-Seafood-Field inside the Embassy Suites, Chef Jason Dady at his Tuscan Steakhouse offers a new menu blending classic favorites with Italian inspirations.
A half Tuscan-style super fresh Panzanella salad was perfectly dressed, marvelous, and being Texas, was still enough for two. Following was a 16-ounce tender, flavorful Ribeye. Intending to only eat half, it was impossibleI to stop. So sadly, the Nutella Mississippi mud pie would have to wait for another visit.
Upon exiting, Mother Nature treated to a multi-octive, symphonic cacophony from grackles hidden high in the trees so intense that it stopped me in my tracks in delight under starlit skies.
If craving brunch or lunch, head to Southtown’s Blush Restaurant & Bakery where Chef Brandon Vasquez will wow you with fried chicken accompanied by angry butter providing just enough heat adding zing served on a croffle with blush syrup. This may be your only meal of the day.
In the hip Pearl district, mouthwatering Mediterranean mezzes, salads, and inspired mains are served at Ladino, the brainchild of award-winning Chef Berty Richter. In a comfortably inviting atmosphere complete with modern Mediterranean music, I enjoyed a marvelous spicy feta with house made sourdough pita, Kohlrabi salad, and lamb belly ribs served with fennel and tzadiki that made me swoon.
On the River Walk you’ll want to stop at Boudros on the River Walk known for outstanding prickly pear margaritas made with cactus purée and its superb table side guacamole. The crab tostada was tasty and the herb encrusted drum fish in a chipotle beurre Blanc with mushrooms was delightful.
At Pharm Table Chef Elizabeth Johnson prepares plant forward dishes, though with salmon, pork and short ribs on the menu for the carnivores among us.
Done with meat for the day, starting with an amuse bouche of turmeric, ginger, and honey got my palette ready for the joys to follow: spice route beets with parsley and cashew green goddess with a fabulous, heat kick from the hemp salsa. Next was an enticing butternut squash chaat with tamarind date chutney served with house dosa.
Twenty large crystal chandeliers grace Haywire, adding bling to its Texas theme. The Texas red fish with shrimp was fulfilling while the whiskey-laced bread pudding with creamy vanilla ice cream promised exercise would be required. Conveniently, Haywire sits at the edge of La Cantera, a chic outdoor mall with Neiman Marcus, several luxury shops including Tecovas, if one has, as I did, an emergency need of powder blue ostrich cowboy boots.
The ”last supper” at Mesquite was a perfect mix of margarita verdita, and pollo asado tacos with criolla. The creamy pecan flan was happily wedded to a smooth Espresso martini, all accompanied by live music.
The Finds
Naturally no trip to San Antonio would be complete with visiting the Alamo and neighboring missions. In the 1700s, Franciscan missionaries established six missions among the San Antonio River. Five survive, four are active and part of the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park. The Alamo, site of the battle in 1836 along with the four Spanish colonial missions were collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015, the first in Texas.
Over 200 men lost their lives at the Alamo, including Davy Crockett after Mexican soldiers stormed the fortress. Inside the Alamo’s Ralston Center, there’s a historical recap narrated by British singer Phil Collins. Collins, originally inspired by his adoration of Disney’s Crockett series, became a serious collector of Alamo memorabilia, and ultimately donated his artifact collection to the Center. The Missions Visitor Center has a good museum giving a general historical background.
In the Alamo Plaza are imposing bronze sculptures of Texan notables such as Sam Houston, the Commander and chief of the Texian army, Juan Seguin, a Texas revolutionary leader and Alamo courier, and José Antonio Navarro, signer of the Texas Declaration of Independence.
Neither the church nor the Spanish government intended the missions to be eternal. Once the Catholic faith was accepted by the Indians, the properties were turned over to the community and secularized under the Republic of Mexico. The churches then became part of the Catholic parish of San Fernando in San Antonio.
The Royal Road passes through Mission San Jose. This Spanish colonial trading route connected the San Antonio missions with Mexico City. This explains the interconnection of peoples and cultures that was neither indigenous nor Spanish, that became the predominant culture of South Texas.
As originally conceived, the Mission was an act of evangelism not building; it was a Spanish movement to propagate the faith and save souls becoming a temporal and spiritual community.
The Pearl District is a lovely pedestrian area with restaurants, cafés, and specialty shops. Pullman Market has gourmet dishes, a bakery to successfully murder any carb free existence, a deli to satisfy even New Yorkers, and given the location, a fabulous selection of salsas.
If you’re here on a Tuesday night, pop into The Stable where they have live music and Texas two-step. It’s a hoot, even if both of your feet are left and your job is people watching cowboy-hatted dancers.
At Tower of the Americas, built for the Hemisfair World’s Fair in 1968 in celebration of the city’s 250th anniversary, a bird’s eye view of San Antonio awaits from the 75th floor, or 1,000 steps up. The short 4D film Skies of Texas is fun and alone is worth the visit.
Nearby is Re:Rooted 210 Urban Winery. Here award-wining (against the French no less), maverick winemaker Jennifer Beckmann will change your views entirely on Texas wines. I’m still dreaming of her 2023 Mariposa del Alma.
Originally the Lone Star Brewery and repurposed in the 1980s the San Antonio Museum of Art is beautifully curated. Especially impressive were its contemporary art collection, and its Papua New Guinean sculptures, carvings, and tribal figurines.
The grand Spanish Colonial Revival private residence of Marion Koogler McNay set on 23 acres, was by her legacy converted to the McNay Museum in the 1950s with her collection, now over 22,000 pieces. It became the first modern art museum in Texas and first to be privately endowed. Upstairs, the 15-minute film encapsulating McNays’ remarkable life is impressionable.
McNay’s special exhibit entitled “Untitled,” celebrates 20 years of collecting contemporary art by its former head of curatorial affairs, René Paul Barilleaux, bringing together over 100 unique pieces. A lifesize living room of people made with Cheetos was remarkable (through September 6, 2026).
Close to downtown, the San Antonio Botanical Gardens is a green oasis. On the Texas Trail there’s diverse native plant life and species supported by it, including wood ducks, red-eared sliders, and egrets, along with historic structures.
The Zen-inducing Mokara Spa has separate men’s and women’s wet areas, with Jacuzzis overlooking treetops, a steam room and sauna. There’s a relaxation room certain to deliver a state of Nirvana. The women’s dressing area was stocked with every conceivable amenity to thoughtfully include multipurpose contact lens solution and cases for those of us still pretending to have 20/20 vision after the age of 40.
With a full spa menu for men and women, here hands down I had the best hotel deep-tissue massage I’ve experienced anywhere by Cesar, a therapist who skillfully removed a month of strenuous globetrotting in 80-minutes.
Whatever you choose to do in San Antonio, whether engage in history, the arts, or the food scene, you’ll come away wondering when those cowboy boots you couldn’t live without will be bringing you back to Texas’ Little Venice. Happy travels!
