Breguet is a watch brand that has been in existence since 1775. Every time there is an announcement of a pending release, it's enough to beg investigation from serious watch collectors. In 2017, Breguet made a formal introduction to the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 at Baselworld. The example joined the 5887 collections in a new colorway and to say it created a stir may be an understatement. Three years into its existence we highlight the newest addition to the family in rose gold. Here are 10 things you didn't know about the new Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 as their contribution for 2020.
1. This is the second rose gold version
The first rose gold version of the 5887 collections was offered in 2017 when the watch was displayed at Baselworld. The predecessor of our current and pending variant came out in platinum and rose gold, but this is a new iteration with some noticeable differences. Breguet is not known for repackaging an older version for the sake of variation. The updated version has a personality of its own which is highlighted by its new slate-grey dial that offers the distinction of character. Although it's a new colorway in the line and retains the same DNA, it is still a new Breguet in the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 line.
2. It is an example of Breguet's commitment to contemporary design
The looks of the new Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 are updated and improved We begin with the case. This is a large case for Breguet measuring 43.9 mm in width and 11.75 mm in depth. This is the first variation by the brand to give the new version a contemporary vibe. The small details do add up to a huge difference for the discerning eye. The lugs are shaped and textured differently. They're angular and integrated with a brushed finish for the central lug which presents a lovely contrast. Maintaining the fluted case band and crown prevent straying from signature features of the brand, too far.
3. The watch is inspired by the seas
Abraham Louis Breguet designed watches for the French Navy in the early 1800s. The Marine Moniker comes from this early line that serves as the inspiration for the modern iteration Breguet now offers. The watch is inspired by life on the high seas, and for decades the brand remained a supplier for the French naval forces, hence, its water-resistant construction which can tolerate depths of up to 100 meters. Although it's not a diver watch, it will hold up nicely in the shower, when snorkeling, and similar water sport activities.
4. The dial reflects Breguet's craftsmanship
What we love about the dial is that it is offered in a slate-grey background that contrasts so beautifully with the rose gold case. One makes the other stand out. At the center of the dial, the wave pattern imitates the movement of the sea which gives a not to its Marine history. the tourbillon and equation of time cam are placed at the lower right between the 4 and 6 o'clock positions. The ring that contains the hour markers has been placed a little off-center, offering visual trickery that makes space for the two prized elements.
5. Unique dial elements
The first thing we noticed about the dial was the application of the Roman numerals in rose gold. They become a focal point as well they should. The application of the slightly raised numerals adds depth to the face of the watch, with minute markers tastefully denoted as small bumps that are legible and present when needed, but they recede into the background to give the numerals their rightful place.
6. Even the hands are spectacular
Breguet pulled out all the stops with their meticulous attention to detail. Just as the Roman numerals in rose gold catch your attention, so do the hands. They're also made of rose gold material with a needle shape for hours, minutes, and a sweeping second hand. The fourth hand that you see on the dial points to the day of the month which is presented for display across the top portion of the inner dial.
7. The movement is a masterpiece
The movement that powers the Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 is exquisite. It is comprised of a total of 563 components in a self-winding style titled the Calibre 581DPE with 57 jewels. The balance wheel is a Breguet in-house beating at a frequency of 4 with an inverted lateral lever escapement and a flat/silicon balance spring and oscillating weight platinum. The power reserve is 80 hours.
8. Multiple components are Breguet inventions
Breguet is known for its unique design and technology features. The components of this watch that are Breguet creations are the Breguet hands, the self-winding mechanism in the movement, the escape-wheel, and lever in silicon, the equation of time, the tourbillon, and the perpetual calendar. These are each the unique patented in-house versions of the components.
9. The Equation of Time is a rare complication
This complication tells the wearer the difference between the meantime for your location and the local solar time. Horologists understand that there is a difference of five and a half seconds. It's a difficult equation for most to grasp, and although not practical for the average person, it is a manmade notion that is reflected in the various time zones and when it comes to precision, horologists see the value in denoting the differences.
10. A collectible timepiece
The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 is a highly collectible timepiece. Although we've seen no indication that Breguet has limited the production of pieces, it is certainly an exquisite variant in the lineup. Its remarkable beauty and the careful application of rose gold makes this watch stand out from the others. It is offered for the price of $215,000.
Written by Garrett Parker
Read more posts by Garrett Parker