The Maldives On My Mind
Tropical islands, wherever they are in the world, with their peaceful attributes, have always tickled the imagination, especially when contemplating the quadrice of sun, sea, sand, and solitude. The Maldives adds a few layers to that calculus given its utterly unique geography and that its official religion is Sunni Islam.
About 470 miles from the Asian continent’s mainland, the Maldives are southwest of Sri Lanka. Consisting of 1,192 coral islands, only 198 are habited. Grouped in a double helix chain of 26 atolls, it’s Asia’s smallest country and one of the world’s most geographically dispersed sovereign states.
In addition to its Herculean geographical prowess, cerulean, blue waters and mind-blowing abundant, colorful marine life, the islands catering to travelers are unique in that they are cultural mélanges – well over half of resort employees are foreigners, mainly Indian, Sri Lankan, Filipino, Indonesian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani. As a practical matter, that means food varieties reign supreme, and delicious choices abound. It also means attempting to grasp Maldivian culture is more challenging unless time is spent in the capital, Malé, or on one of the local islands, neither of which really cater to foreign travelers.
As a seasoned journalist, generally I travel alone, and to date have thankfully never had any serious issues. My scheduled trip to the Maldives – a place I had wanted to write about for years – was finalized a week before the Maldivian government announced a blanket ban on Israeli passport holders. Following an international uproar, the blanket ban was slightly, verbally walked back since it would have also banned Israeli Arab Muslims and Israeli Palestinian Christians from travel to the Maldives since they too travel on Israeli passports.
It hasn’t been made clear however how the ban would be enforced upon attempted entry by an Israeli passport holder. Would there be a religion test? A required affidavit of non-Jewish status at the airport? Though I’m fortunate to possess two passports – neither of which is Israeli – I was and remain offended that any visitor would be banned due to a war following a terrorist attack or resulting political policy of their birth country. (I said precisely that in a 2017 article when the U.S. banned travelers from seven Muslim countries to the U.S.) With some trepidation, I decided to forge ahead and visit the Maldives.
I’m happy to report that my Maldivian travel experience was positive in that I never once felt in any way compromised. That may of course be since the islands where resorts are located are wholly self-contained mini universes – completely unconcerned with the outside world – and as said above, employ workers of many nationalities, all of whom were kind, hospitable and provided excellent service.
That said, each traveler must decide if they are willing to spend their holiday dollars on a nation that has banned another’s civilians because of a governmental policy or war with which the banning nation disagrees. Additionally, LGBTQ travelers should be aware that there are criminal penalties – punishable by fines, prison sentences up to eight years and 100 lashes – for homosexual conduct as penalties are invoked under Sharia law.
These positions are even more remarkable given that the Maldives is almost completely dependent on tourism: accounting for 28-percent of Maldivian GDP, while over 90-percent of government tax revenues are derived from import duties and tourism-related taxes. Keep in mind that experiences on the ground are often far different than the law’s black letter. That said, one should not wear religious identifying jewelry or engage in public displays of affection.
Mellow Maadhoo in the South Malé Atoll
The island of Maadhoo is reached by 45-minute speed boat ride from Malé. The embarkation jetty is just steps from Malé’s Velana International Airport’s exit. Arriving to Ozen Life Maadhoo a family-friendly, all-inclusive, 94-villa resort, the mood was set with a swift check-in, provision of Guy Charbaut champagne, and an immediate, complimentary five-minute foot massage. Minutes later I was whisked by golf cart to my 450-square foot overwater bungalow on the island’s sunrise side.
Two plexiglass cutouts in the hardwood floors permitted viewing of meandering, underwater life. Multi-shade blue waters are the focus and the only windowless wall – against which rested the comfortable king size bed – had wave-patterned blue, sea-mimicking wallpaper. The outdoor balcony had a daybed, two loungers and an overwater hammock. Its outdoor staircase led directly into the sublime, bathtub-warm waters. A stocked mini bar, wine refrigerator with Italian red and white blends, dry snacks, and Segafredo coffee system and 42-inch flatscreen television completed the main area.
The massive bathroom and dressing area had an extra-large freestanding tub facing a picture window providing a sense of suspended animation. Asprey amenities complimented the blue agate dual vanity. The walk-in shower, also overlooking the sea, had both 20-inch rain and traditional European shower heads.
To shake off the 24-hour travel time, I headed to the overwater gym with LifeFitness equipment, including treadmills, spinners, ellipticals and free weights, then jumped into the saltwater pool. At Elena Spa, ocean-facing treatment rooms had plexiglass flooring underneath treatment tables allowing fishy friend viewing. Here a Javanese massage therapist used traditional Maldivian therapy of heated sand encased in soft cotton pouches. It made me not only forget the long flights, but also nearly my name.
The next few days were a mix of swimming, reading, and eating some great meals. Talented Indian Executive Chef Alok Verma oversees the island’s several restaurants making food boredom non-existent. A glorious morning buffet at The Palms, included Chinese and Maldivian specialities, wonderful salads reflecting influence of neighboring Sri Lanka, India and Bangladesh – much of the greens and spices come from Maadhoo’s hydroponic garden – made-to-order continental items and delightful patisserie selections. At Traditions Peking, there’s traditional Chinese dishes and dim sum. At Traditions Indian/Ceylon, there’s excellent Bengali items such as barramundi Tikka and 36-spice prawns served with warm naan.
Maadhoo’s M6M – minus six meters – is a truly unusual underwater dining experience. Guests can select a fixed menu of seafood, meat, or vegetarian. I had seafood – scallops, lobster bisque, and miso sesame jobfish – all while watching seafood and several blacktop sharks meander around the circular restaurant.
For the ultimate antidote to civilization, there are strategically placed partially submerged hammocks and overwater swings on the island allowing guests to channel their inner child.
Resplendent Reserve Bolifushi
About 30-minutes away by speedboat is family-friendly Ozen Reserve Bolifushi. Only four years old, the verdant Bolifushi has 90 overwater and beachfront villas. Guests can tool around on provided beach cruisers or in golf carts outfitted to look like white Rolls-Royce Phantom’s chauffeured by their butlers. Though neither is necessary as guests can easily walk everywhere.
Brought to my large beach front villa containing 880-square feet on grounds five times that, I was greeted by a dozen petit-fours and cookies that had me gleefully approaching a full-fledged chocolate derangement syndrome diagnosis.
The king size platform bed had a creatively asymmetric wooden headboard was complimented by a large sofa, marble-topped table, daybed, stocked minibar with Italian wines, champagne, Nespresso machine, tea pot, and a 60-inch flatscreen television. Just behind the bed, an enormous working desk which was never once used.
The walk-in dressing area led to an enormous bathroom with dual granite vanities, another daybed, make-up table with oversized mirrors, two-person walk-in shower decked in caramel colored granite with 24-inch rain and European shower heads. Just outside the bathroom a massive outdoor bathtub rested in its own stone hut. This led to an L-shaped swimming pool great for laps and a deck with yet another daybed in a covered outdoor pavilion. This in turn led to a pristine beach with two loungers under a thatched umbrella. Soft white sand and bathtub-warm waters, gloriously flat as a pancake, resulted in dreamy days.
One morning a “floating breakfast” was delivered to my villa pool. While more an instagram moment, admittedly the food was delicious, and the experience sublime. It would be easy never to leave the beachfront villa, but the island has great snorkeling. Just 15-feet from the shoreline, Nemo and his many friends await in abundant numbers. Though I’ve been diving and snorkeling for decades the world over, here I joyfully encountered countless species for the first time. There are also two wrecks to explore.
Bolifushi’s overwater gym with LifeFitness equipment made working out a pleasure and yoga classes in the ocean-facing pavilion made attaining a Zen-inspired state possible.
Dining is front and center here and Bolifushi does not disappoint. At Saffron, Chef Hari prepared fantastic northern Indian cuisine. At the new pan-Asian Soyi, there’s Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese fare.
Vista Del Mar had beautiful breakfast buffets with every conceivable option, and at lunch boasted a dizzying array of salad options, pizzas, grilled meats and fish, signature paella, sashimi and sushi, and several delectable Levant items, a cheese station to make Napoleon proud and swoon-worthy desserts that would’ve had Marie-Antoinette re-think her infamous carbohydrate proclamation.
At Origin∃ overlooking the Indian Ocean, Chef Chaitanya prepared an indulgent meal of scallops, lobster and chocolate mousse, wine-paired with Guy Charbout champagnes, Canary Islands Vinatigo and South African Glenelly Lady May.
***
All travelers must decide how and where to spend their vacation dollars in keeping with their passports, their sensitivities and their lifestyle. The Maldives has some of the world’s most magnificent geography and marine life with great accommodations and cuisine. As Mark Twain once famously wrote, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” Wise words to be heeded.
Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in several major publications around the world, including The LA Times, The SF Examiner, The Asia Times, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Daily Journal and The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, among many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com.