The Urban Cool That is Charlotte, North Carolina
When one thinks of Charlotte, NC, one’s thoughts often turn to banking as it’s the nation’s second largest banking hub after NYC. Bank of America makes its headquarters there and it’s also home to several Fortune 500 companies. But if that is where your thinking on Charlotte – known as Queen City – ends, you would be wrong. Very, very wrong.
For those with a daring need for speed, Charlotte is the birthplace of NASCAR. So car aficionados will certainly want to go to Uptown’s NASCAR Hall of Fame and check out shiny, fast things and get acquainted with NASCAR’s genesis from moonshine, prohibition, and ultimately bootlegging.
Great restaurants abound in Charlotte’s marvelous food scene, including a recently obtained Michelin star at Counter, where performative culinary artistry beckons. Beer and innovative craft cocktail drinkers will both find their hoppy and happy places here too as Charlotte has some of the country’s finest craft breweries and award-winning mixologists.
Added to that, there are top tier museums for the arts, aviation, history, botanical gardens, and 20 minutes away, the Carolina Raptor Center, with aviary ambassadors and plenty of outdoor activities to enjoy.
Then of course the modern Charlotte Douglas International Airport from where you can get to over three dozen international destinations non-stop, making it a traveler’s dream airport. It also has the most streamlined car rental access I’ve experienced recently anywhere. Mere steps from deplaning takes one to a short, covered bridge, an elevator ride and voila, your chariot awaits.
The Bed
The Grand Bohemian Charlotte, part of the Autograph Collection, is in Uptown’s center Charlotte’s vibrant cultural corridor. In three words, it’s chic, stylish, and cool. Valet parking makes arrival and departures as easy as clicking a QR code. The lobby features Venetian chandeliers, marble floors, red accent pops, and a signature bronze horse, while the four elevators bring Argentina front and center reflecting mirrored tango dance images.
Guest room hallways are like Ben Stiller’s Hollywood movie, “Night at the Museum,” only a thousand times better as these have fuchsia, gray, and blue custom Axminister carpeting designed to appear from the doorways as flowing ends of the tango dresses first seen in the elevators. Then there are 250 pieces of exquisite art to appreciate throughout the hotel.
My large Argentinian-inspired king room had a fantastic bubblegum pink and green chandelier in the entryway, and several pieces of interesting art. A small mini bar had the all-important Illy coffee machine, and mini fridge. When work called, a large, glass-topped working desk and extremely comfortable chair – a hotel rarity these days – made that downright pleasant.
The space had a lusciously comfortable, king-size bed boasting buttery, soft, high-count sheets. A dramatic headboard in teal padded leather accented with brass nail heads made lounging in bed to read or watch the 60-inch flatscreen TV de rigeur. The nightstand had enough USB and electrical outlets to satisfy one’s inner tech geek. The purple and beige carpet beautifully accented the teal Napoleon lounger that faced the floor-to-ceiling windows dressed in patterned drapery that would have made Scarlet O’Hara swoon with dressmaking dreams.
The bathroom had a large black-and-white marble vanity, with hotel branded, environmentally sized amenities, a black marble stall shower, thick cotton towels, and a separate water closet.
Precor treadmills and step machines, peloton bikes, free weights, and a Precor weight machine graced the Fitness Center. The Spa at Grand Bohemian has a full menu of spa treatments in a calming atmosphere. After your treatment, you can enjoy lounging on the terrace with an offered glass of sparkling wine to toast your good fortune. Its Executive Lounge had throughout the day all manner of fruits, snacks, and sweets.
Grand Bohemian’s rooftop Buho Bar had marvelous floral velvet banquette booths, red velvet tufted sofas, more inspired art, several unique chandeliers, including one of red Murano glass, all in a trendy atmosphere, and of course, a stellar city view.
The Meals
Before arriving to Charlotte, make a reservation at Counter. Executive Chef Sam Hart and his talented team bring to fruition a multi-course, story-driven menu served in a U-shaped counter for 18 lucky people facing the open kitchen. The food story begins in the foyer, where a sous chef greets guests while serving several amuse-bouche, including caviar in editable flowers.
This season’s dinner – which changes quarterly – was ‘Pure Imagination,’ a tribute to Willy Wonka. Commencing with themed movie music, dessert was served first – ensuring Chef Hart a special place in heaven – strawberry, raspberries, and mint foam, then various chocolate dishes. A cheese course was next, followed by ribeye, green curry, fried catfish, shrimp scampi, and other delectable artwork with tunes accompanying each course. This is where tastebuds die of pleasure on a one-way adventure ticket to foodie bliss.
Counter is culinary genius married to artistry utilizing the finest locally sourced ingredients. It’s stirred with showmanship, blended with heart, and mixed with soulful craft. That I eat for a living might be a vast understatement. That this was one of the most pleasurable dining experiences I can recall, is not.
In NoDa – short for North Davidson – is a little neighborhood with a cool vibe of cafés, restaurants, vintage shops, and bookstore. Famous for their brunch and dinner menu, The Goodyear House started serving lunch a few months ago and it’s easy to see why it has taken off. Southern inspired plates and craft cocktails, are served in a restored interior and outdoor patio. A standout was the tender chicken schnitzel Caesar salad. Popular among vegans is the Smoked Cashew Mac using Cavatappi pasta, cashew cream, and a blend of paprika, chili powder, and Panko to give it zest, crunch, and heat. This committed carnivore heartily approved this delicious vegetarian dish.
Another great eatery in NoDa is Haberdish, a mill town southern kitchen. Though I seriously considered its renowned fried chicken and waffles, I decided on the Haberdish special with tender fried chicken, cucumber salad, and green cabbage slaw, accompanied by their delicious southern biscuit. Because frankly, a visit to the south without a good house made biscuit is just wrong. Crucially, one cannot leave without trying Haberdish’s banana pudding, which has precious little to do with bananas and everything to do with a rich, creamy, heavenly dessert. One is easily enough for two or three to share. Unless of course I’m dining, in which case, a finger, or perhaps an entire hand could be a casualty if another’s spoon attempted encroachment.
At Folia, fuscia and carrot colored velvet sofa seating and a long bar set the neighborhood atmosphere. A unique cocktail menu includes “annuals,” like the ‘Dragon Fly,’ a delectable concoction of Tito’s vodka, dragon fruit, lime, coconut water, Ginjo sake, and Thai green chili, and “perennials” such as ‘Shiso Unusual’ with Lunazul Reposado, guava, herbs, spices, and tajin-pineapple foam. These handcrafted cocktails are created by Bob Peters, named Charlotte Magazine’s Best Bartender of 2024. A well-deserved award indeed.
Albertine Restaurant is an Uptown Charlotte gem. In a modern yet comfortable space, Chef Joe Kindred proves that Mediterranean food, Southern European dishes and continental cuisine can elope and live happily ever after.
The Buttermilk Man’oushe with Zatar are what carb dreams are made of, especially when coupled with Zaalouk – a smoky, Moroccan eggplant and tomato spread. The tuna crudo with crunchy puffed freekeh, urfa pepper, and pixie tangerine was equal parts umami and delightful. The tender hangar steak barely needed a knife, while the samneh fried potatoes with seeded chermoula created new levels of carbo-bliss. The wood-grilled milk bread babka with the date caramel, Nutella, amontillado sherry, and labneh ice cream meant my next journey overseas may have to include several marathons.
At Grand Bohemian’s Mico, over the open kitchen is a floral mural and in a twist of artistic wizardry, the chiffon window treatments match it, setting the stage for this artistically appealing dining space.
A perfectly shaken-not-stirred, Bond-style dirty martini with blue cheese stuffed olives was a great start to the Argentinian chickpea fritter salad, and crispy braised lamb shoulder. Paying homage to my island roots, the evening concluded with creamy coconut ice cream.
The Finds
In front of the Bechtler Museum of Modern Art is the iconic firebird sculpture, nicknamed “Disco Chicken.” Inside its collection of about 2,000 are rotated, including Picassos, Warhols, and Miros. This summer’s exhibition until November 9, 2026 is Jiha Moon’s “Collection Reframed,” that creates dialogues between past and present examining representations of women across time. David McGee’s exhibit through August 23, 2026, “The Griot (storyteller) and the Nightingale” has over 100 pieces reflecting his career, examining narratives of art history, the nature of language, and politics of race and class. Especially interesting was his ‘La Bête’ pieces where he grapples with Picasso’s legacy in a colorful confrontation of modernism’s blind spots.
A hundred feet away is Mint Museum Uptown. Its third floor is dedicated to contemporary craft and design. The fourth floor contains its world class collection of international art and American landscapes.
With Southern Charm Rides, a fabulous 90-minute historical tour in a luxury limo-style golf cart awaits. An excellent guide regaled us through Uptown and all four wards including four statues square commemorating different eras in the city’s history: transportation, industry, commerce, and future. In the gorgeous fourth ward, architecturally significant homes of all genres reign supreme. On Poplar Street many scenes of the series Homeland were filmed in the ‘home’ of CIA officer Carrie Mathison played by Claire Danes.
Through Labor Day at Freedom Hall is the not-to-be missed Titanic Exhibition. Constructed in Belfast and then the largest ship ever built, it was also then the largest people mover. Tragically, on April 14, 1912, just four days into the journey from Southampton, it hit an iceberg with 2,208 passengers and crew aboard, sinking in only 2 hours and 40 minutes. Its 710 rescued survivors were taken aboard the British passenger liner Carpathia.
In this incredibly curated exhibition visitors walk through recreated ship decks and hallways, and while walking on plexiglass, can see reproduced artifacts of the wreck site, including the blue heart shaped sapphire prop worn by Kate Winslet playing Rose Bukater in the 1997 film Titanic. Most importantly, visitors bear dramatic witness to the multitude of human stories and the courage of many. Is it at once, like life itself, both a story of intense triumph and great tragedy.
The Lessons Learned
Whatever brings you to Charlotte, whether it’s business or banking, or simply a dedicated few days in Queen City to wine and dine well, take in some of the many cultural activities, or explore the region, rest assured you will enjoy immensely this “big, small town” replete with genuine Southern hospitality. Happy travels!
