Wonderful Wintering in The Hamptons
For some, there are few things more delightful mid-winter than sand, surf, and warm, sunny days. For others, there is nothing better than brisk air, snow on the ground outside and a crackling, glowing, fireplace inside. If you fall into the latter category, then spending a few days midwinter in the Hamptons, specifically in Amagansett, will, without doubt, be a terrific choice.
The Bed
About two hours by car from JFK international airport – depending on traffic of course – is The Roundtree, Amagansett, a dog-friendly member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World that pays dignified homage to its farmstead origins. Situated on two charming acres, The Roundtree has 14 keys and can accommodate 40 people in a luxe variety of historic, beach chic, stand-alone cottages, rooms, and suites. The Roundtree also boasts an extensively renovated, two-dwelling Beach House compound near the dunes, once owned by the legendary Neil Simon, providing full hotel services to it and offering access to members-only Amagansett Beach.
I hung my hat, winter coat, and scarf, in the beautiful two-bedroom, three-bathroom main house designed with a plethora of perfectly placed windows permitting in cascading light coupled with a pair of French doors leading to a large patio with two deliriously comfortable rocking chairs.
The main floor living room had two seating options, a fireplace, two granite-topped coffee tables, a six-person circular dining room table and another dining area with a six-person traditional rectangular table. It was elegant, yet possessed understated furnishings, some African art, pottery, and a selection of hardcover books to peruse.
The main floor also boasted a large powder room, a stunning state-of-the-art Miele kitchen complete with a full-sized refrigerator stocked with three kinds of milk, bottled organic iced teas, soft drinks, and both sparkling and still bottled waters. For those wishing to seriously cook, a pull-out dishwasher, stove top, and both regular and microwave ovens, a toaster, tea pot, and most important of all, a gleaming large Nespresso machine with a wide selection of pods and Harvey & Sons teas. A lovely stoneware set of dishes, gleaming wine stems and glasses would be perfect if one has friends or relatives who channel their inner Julia Child.
Upstairs are two distinct ensuite bedrooms on either side of the landing, designed and decorated in the same elegantly understated and comfortable fashion as the rest of the main house. Room One where I slumbered had a king-sized bed with utterly magnificent, high-count Frett bed linens, a 42-inch flatscreen television, a wardrobe with lusciously warm, lined robes, a two-person seating area and a full-size sofa that was comfortable enough to work if I was too lazy to meander downstairs. The large safe housed my laptop, and throughout abundant electrical outlets completed the sleeping area.
The bathroom had a natural stone sink, large, walk-in shower with environmentally sized Grown Alchemist amenities and thick, enveloping towels. Room Two had a queen-sized bed also with glorious Frett bedding, a 42-inch flatscreen television, a massive working desk and a bathroom similar to Room One’s. Nightly turndown service meant everything was always perfect.
The Meals
Each evening guests receive a text message with a link to a menu from which to select continental breakfast items to be delivered to one’s accommodations the following morning in a large picnic basket at a specific time. One morning I enjoyed a freshly made scone and Greek-style yogurt parfait topped with gourmet granola and fresh fruit. Another morning, a fresh fruit platter and pain du chocolate.
As the continental breakfasts were filling, I couldn’t be bothered with lunch. Besides, if I got a tad peckish mid-afternoon, a box of gourmet snacks, including dried apple slices, Northfork potato chips, and Southfork brownie were strategically located in the main house to scratch that itch.
Thirty feet from The Roundtree is Il Buco al Mare – which also has locations in the city, L.A., and Spain. At dinner one night, I ate a marvelous bucatini, grilled Brussels sprouts, and a flavorful, perfectly prepared skirt steak topped with sun chokes and chimichurri sauce that made me consider belting out “La bamba.” However, fortunately for nearby guests, I controlled any such outwardly and highly likely off-key musical urges.
Another evening I dined at East Hampton Grill 10-minutes away. While it was lively and busy, table conversation was pleasantly audible, all in a dignified, yet hip environment. Known for their house made “heavenly rosemary biscuits,” served with Hampton’s honey, devouring them did not disappoint. They also provided knowledge I would be sufficiently carbo-loaded and ready for a full marathon I would never in this lifetime complete.
The fresh, lightly dressed, “little house salad” was likewise excellent. I was very impressed by the hand chopped, sushi-grade tuna tartar with thinly sliced avocados. Having grown up in the islands, tuna tartar has always been one of my four basic food groups since baby teeth made their blessed appearance.
Fully satiated, naturally I declined dessert. Apparently that was not an acceptable option to my delightful server, and my arm was twisted into submission. Much to my sweet tooth’s chocoholic bliss, a delicately magnificent pot de crème served in a cappuccino cup arrived. So ended a perfect evening.
The Finds
If in need of retail therapy, just down the street from The Roundhouse is the Ashley twins’ retail outlet The Row. There are several other high-end shops in Amagansett Square, though many are closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays in winter. In the Square also is a café, gourmet market, barber shop, and perhaps most importantly, The Salon & Day Spa, where a full range of beauty and spa menu awaits indulgence. Open daily except Sundays and Mondays.
A five-minute walk from The Roundtree is Amber Waves, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Here purchases support farming apprenticeships, food pantry donations, children’s food education, and open access to the farm. There is a cozy eatery inside serving espresso, warm pastries, and hot soups, all seemingly designed for winter comfort.
For those desiring spiritual connection, St. Peter the Apostle church is across the street, while a short stroll away are both First Presbyterian and St. Michael’s Lutheran churches.
Then of course there is the beach that I will certainly walk along and enjoy more thoroughly on a return trip during a warmer season.
The Lessons Learned
Admittedly, having grown up out west and on the islands, I am most certainly not a mid-winter person. That said, I passed a delightful, relaxing, and rejuvenating three days in Amagansett at The Roundtree. Despite the mid-wintry temperatures – and this year was particularly frigid – there was an inherently peaceful tranquility and stillness visiting this time of year, that might otherwise be unattainable during high season months. Not to mention trying to get reservations at the restaurants I thoroughly enjoyed. It was ideal to catch up on work, reading, movies, and long calls with friends. I also cannot remember the last time I slept so deeply or so well. It might well have been while my mother was expecting my arrival.
A final note: I have a new and profoundly deep appreciation for salt crystals sprinkled on walkways and paths that allowed me to take pleasantly long walks to admire the dramatic scenery and period architecture, all while getting in my daily steps and happily staying vertical. Happy travels!
Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in several major publications around the world, including The LA Times, The SF Examiner, The Asia Times, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Daily Journal and The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, among many, many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com