A Closer Look At The Angelus Gold and Carbon Flying Tourbillon Watch
Angelus is a Swiss watchmaker that has a rich and storied history that goes back to 1891. The luxury brand formed by the Stolz brothers is known for its innovations in horology that started with a humble one-room operation on the Rue du Marais. It’s transformed the industry with a flagship model, the Chronodate. It debuted in 1942, evolving into the Chronodato in 1943, as the first series chronograph, with a calendar in the world. The Chronodate’s popularity soared, and it became a competitor of Patek Philippe’s 1937 Calendar, followed by a perpetual calendar a few years later. The staff at A Blog To Watch explains that the quartz crisis in the 1970s forced the longstanding Angelus manufacturing plant to close. After being defunct for nearly forty years, Manufacture La Joux-Perret, resurrected the brand after the Japanese Citizen group acquired the watchmaker. Seven years later, it produced the eGold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon under the Angelus brand. The most recent release is the Angelus Gold and Carbon Flying Tourbillon Watch. Its predecessor features a caliber SF217 movement, based on the SF215 with 17 to 19 jewels, a central hand that points to its peripheral chapter rings on the dial with attractive windows displaying the day and month the 6 and 12 o’clock with a 45-minute counter. The Chronodate became the top-selling timepiece of the brand and set the tone for future models within the chronograph series. The Angelus Gold and Carbon Flying Tourbillon are based on the original version with modern updates. It’s the latest in a continuum of watches in a collection that features numerous collectibles, deserving a closer look.
A complex Flying Tourbillon
Monochrome describes the Angelus Gold & Carbon Flying tourbillon as an edgy and bold timepiece. At first glance, you notice the lovely dial with its angular composition and unique face. It’s a part of the U23 Carbon Cocktail collection, featuring eight examples with the latest edition the modern version of the Chronofadte with more complications. It’s an innovative model that catches the eye with its skeletonized dial that reveals the unique gold bridges within the hand-wound movement. It merits a detailed description of the finer points to fully appreciate the innovation and artistry behind the design.
Specifications
The Angelus Gold and Carbon Flying Tourbillon Watch feature an angular case that measures 42.50mm in width with a depth of 11.7 mm in 18 karats 5N red gold material. The bezel is made of the same precious metal in a notched style that sits on top of the carbon composite portion of the middle part of the case, sitting within an 18-karat red gold outside case component. The finish is vertically brushed with chamfered edges polished to a mirror finish. The combination of the varied finishes adds a sense of depth and luxury. Attention to the smallest details creates an outstanding timepiece with artistic nuances. It has a sloped black flange to show the date. Uniquely, the hands and minutes hands are rhodium-plated.
The dial and movement
The dial offers a partial view of the movement beneath with the outer part of solid material in black PVD treatment. The applied hour markers are 18k white gold, treated with SuperLumiNova for superior illumination in dark environments. The time is highly legible in all lighting conditions. Angelus fills us in on the details of the movement. It’s a caliber A-250 in-house manufacture featuring a flying tourbillon, and gold bridges to secure the various moving components in place. It’s a hand-wound type that runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of over 90 hours. The styling of the movement is skeletonized to create a three-dimensional aesthetic and view of the gold bridges in relief. Functions are hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon.
Other details of the Angelus Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon
The strap is black rubber and is a ballistic style with an embossed pattern on the top that has the look of canvas. It affixes to the wrist with a folding buckle made of titanium and 18-karat red gold. The watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. This is a limited edition timepiece with only 18 pieces scheduled for release for sale to the public. The manufacturer’s suggested retail price is $71,838.52. For more information, you can visit the official Angelus website.
Final thoughts
The Angelus Gold and Carbon Flying Tourbillon Watch comes from a long line of high-end watches and is based on the original Chronodate. Angelus went out of business until a contemporary watchmaker brought it back into the business to produce more examples under the Angelus brand. It’s a wonderfully complicated timepiece that catches your eye immediately at first glance with its artistically crafted movement with its skeletonization and gold bridges. It’s an example of how form and function work together to create a visually stunning timepiece with complicated functions that stimulate the imagination. The design engineers and watchmaking artisans were careful to add stunning details to the watch that work together to form a unique watch for 2022. It offers a nod to the original Chronodate with modern twists. The Angelus Gold and Carbon Flying Tourbillon Watch is a collector’s item from the moment of its release. With just eighteen that will ever be produced, its rarity adds to the value. Angelus is not out of line with its price. We anticipate this model to continue to increase in value as buyers scoop up the 18 timepieces available. It’s eye candy yet fully functional. It’s made to be worn and used as a tool to tell the time, but you might be tempted to seal it away in an airtight glass exhibition case because of its beauty. The combination of precious metals and carbon composite lightens the weight of the watch versus solely using 18k gold material. The gold and Carbon Flying Tourbillon is an example of how far we’ve come in watchmaking technology and it’s one of the most lovely artistic expressions of the time we’ve seen in a while.
