Pining Away for Turks & Caicos’ Pine Cay
Over forty islands and cays make up the Caribbean’s ‘Beautiful by Nature’ Turks & Caicos Islands. Only nine of the 40 are inhabited. Thankfully, Pine Cay is one of them. But ‘inhabited’ might be a bit of an overstatement; more like enjoyed by the lucky few.
There are 13 guest suites at Pine Cay Resort, a Relais & Chateau member, with two brand-new beach houses available for nightly stays starting in May. Situated on 800-acres of tranquility, it’s no small wonder that 30-percent of Pine Cay’s Resort’s guests are return visitors. There are also 38 privately owned luxury homes on Pine Cay and these owners often dine at the resort adding a warm panache to the hospitable, idyllic atmosphere.
Pine Cay Resort is accessible from Providenciales International Airport – with flights from many North American hubs – then a short drive to Blue Haven Marina where guests are collected by a resort-provided 25-foot Osprey for the 20-minute boat ride. Pine Cay also has a small, private air strip, named slightly tongue-in-cheek, ‘The Greater Pine Cay Airport’ and is serviced by Caicos Express Airways, operating Beech 1900 and Cessna 402c aircraft for the five-minute flight. The airstrip is also available of course for those guests arriving on their own private planes (though customs and immigration must first be cleared in Providenciales). The air strip can hold up to six private planes while their owners enjoy Pine Cay.
Stepping Into Stillness
Pine Cay may be the ultimate escape and antidote to stress accessible without flying 24-hours to the other end of the globe. This is in addition to an élan and certain je ne sais quoi that comes from stellar accommodations, 100 genuinely hospitable staff members comprised of 15 nationalities, and dining to make even the most die-hard foodie delight. Then of course there’s the multi-hued waters, and the bounty of Mother Nature, impacted only in the most positive manner by Father Time, and since 1917, the island’s three generations of owners.
Transport on the island is only by electric golf cart, bicycle, or foot, which adds to its attributes of quiet serenity and peacefulness. There are happily no televisions in the junior suites, but WiFi is strong and reliable, and USB ports are bedside, in case one wishes to monitor one’s portfolio, or a sports match simply cannot be missed. The two brand new beach houses do have flat screen televisions in the living rooms, but with those stellar views, doubtful they’ll be watched.
Accommodating Comfort
Staying in a junior suite containing about 800-square feet, it boasted a wide, two-seater sofa, light wood and natural stone furnishings, and accented with turquoise to mimic the Caribbean’s many shades. A truly excellent king-sized bed adorned with French Porthault high-count cotton sheets and deliriously dreamy pillows ensured sleep of the innocent. When work required attention, a large desk made that easy. Nearby, a refrigerator stocked with sodas and waters, and for me, the crucial Nespresso coffee maker. The suite had both ceiling fans and air conditioning ensuring cool preferences. However, here in mid-April, light winds were constant and only fans were necessary.
Both an indoor and outdoor patio provided additional relaxing seating options, and on the outer patio, loungers that faced the blissfully blue ocean. The suite also had two sets of snorkeling equipment making communing with underwater life accessible on a moment’s notice. Each suite also comes with its own dedicated thatched beachfront tiki hut with thickly padded loungers resulting in regular mandatory napping.
The ample bathroom had dual vanities with environmentally-sized Bamford amenities, a large stall shower with excellent water pressure, lusciously enveloping Porthault towels, a make-up table, and separate WC.
Food Fit for Foodies With a Side of Clear Skies
As a die-hard foodie eating the world over, it’s often difficult to be impressed. However, impress deeply did Pine Cay’s charming Executive Chef Phillipe Aubron.
Breakfasts have something for every taste including specialty items of coconut milk overnight chia pudding, lobster and grits, with traditional fare of eggs Benedict, made-to-order standard breakfast dishes, and of course, croissants that might’ve altogether altered Marie Antoinette’s infamous carbohydrate ruminations.
Lunch and dinner menus changed daily with fantastic selections. Enjoying mid-day meals that included fresh Greek salads, tangy watermelon gazpacho and marvelous breads, one afternoon while devouring spaghetti Bolognese, my thoughts turned to how impressed even the Godfather would’ve been, whether Marlon Brando or otherwise.
Dinners likewise were marvelous with amuse bouches often too pretty to eat, but they were pleasurably consumed. Appetizers such as delicately battered shrimp, grilled avocado salad, and local speciality conch ceviche, set stages for divine mains. There were steaks so tender knives risked terminal unemployment, pan-seared scallops of delectable culinary artistry, perfect Caribbean jerk chicken, and grilled local fish that had been attending school hours earlier. Desserts of rich chocolate mousse, light cheesecake, and other patisserie perfections, not to mention 12 flavors of mouthwatering homemade ice creams and five sorbets, reminded me why the word ‘diet’ may be the most vile in any language.
The sky was incredibly clear for the duration of my Pine Cay sojourn and provided a nightly dazzling stargazing extravaganza against dark Caribbean skies. One evening following another mind-bogglingly memorable dinner, attention was drawn to the silent skies. SpaceX’s Bandwagon-3 departed Cape Canaveral Space Force Station at 8:48pm. Five minutes later we saw the Falcon-9 rocket carrying military satellites launching towards the heavens. This was of course an unmanned mission. While watching the ascent was remarkable, and accounting for any potential exhilaration one might experience from catapulting into the galaxy in an aluminum cylinder faster than the speed of sound, having my toes instead firmly in the soft sand of this Eden-like Island was far, far better.
Activities for the Body and Soul
An exercise space with a garden view is just off the lobby and has a LifeFitness treadmill, elliptical, and cycle, as well as free weights, workout bench, yoga mats, and exercise ball. Near the Beach Bar, there is sand volleyball, kayaks, paddle boards, Hobie Cats, and my personal favorite, unique red shark bikes – think a spinning bike attached to a large paddle board – to meander the waters.
Daily morning yoga classes took place on an elevated, ocean-facing platform. Although not a huge fan of yoga – though appreciating its benefits – the excellent Indian Yogi here taught such a stellar combination of Hatha and Ashtanga, that the next daily class was eagerly awaited.
Guests can have curated private picnics in secluded locations such as Devil’s Cut, where in a moon-like setting abutting those blue clear waters, graceful egrets soar overhead while ethereal iguanas scamper about. Or snorkelers can take a morning boat jaunt – daily except Sundays – to a site 30-minutes away and see a variety of tropical fish, turtles, and nurse and tiger sharks. Easier still, golf carting to “Reef Ball” located near the marina to snorkel. About 50-feet offshore, this man-made approximately 500-foot long structure was built to attract marine life. It appears from the beach to be eel-shaped. However, once in the water, one can see it’s a pescatarian planned unit development in the shape of spherical igloos with multiple round openings permitting a bird’s eye view of underwater activity.
Guests wishing to fish without embarking on a boat, can golf cart to the “Aquarium,” a natural habitat for tarpon and bonefish. If you end up with a good fish story, then Chef Aubron can prepare you a feast. Paddle boards and kayaks are also at the Aquarium. Nearby a tennis court, and a stroll away, a sand bar full of sand dollars.
Pine Cays’ Sand Dollar Spa has two ocean-facing treatment rooms with wonderfully comfortable massage tables and headrests. Here too, it became clear why guests return. A truly excellent massage by a highly-skilled technician left me in a restorative state of Zen.
The Lessons Learned
Whatever your reasons for wanting an escape, whether to connect or reconnect with loved ones, to bask in the beauty of nature’s nearly endless bounty, to detox, de-stress, disconnect, read, or even write the great American novel, Pine Cay is the place. Without doubt, the very moment you commence your onward journey, wherever that may be, you will be pining to return to this poised slice of perfection that is Pine Cay. And don’t bother packing any shoes: you’ll never wear them. Happy travels!
Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in major publications around the world, including The L.A. Times, The S.F. Examiner, The Asia Times, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, and The Daily Journal, among many, many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com