Much Ado About Milan
When one thinks of Milan, Italy’s second largest city, one’s thoughts naturally turn to fashion, retail therapy, the arts, including Da Vinci’s Last Supper and his other great works, and of course, the dramatic historical architecture, such as Milano’s iconic Duomo Cathedral.
Coupled with the fact that Milan is Italy’s economic capital, houses the Borsa – Italy’s main stock exchange – and is home to several Fortune 500 European corporations, Milan is a bustling city boasting a somewhat unusually convenient marriage of ancient to modern and corporate to cool.
The Ride
JetBlue introduced its new Boston to Milan route on May 11, 2026. On its inaugural flight, on an Airbus 321, it was a pleasure to travel in one of its 24 “Mint” seats, which are actually individual suites. This aircraft also has 114 seats in its “Core” class.
The Mint suites are, in a word, huge, with a closet, and next to the seat, a side lounger where passengers can stretch out while seat-belted for take-offs and landings. There are easy access plugs/USB ports, abundant counter space, an enormous 24-inch touchscreen television into which food orders are placed.
Pleasant and innovative, for the second meal, JetBlue offers a “Breakfast-to-go-bag” to take away for those wishing to sleep lying flat with a great memory foam pillow and cozy comforter until the last possible minute.
All of this with both great craft cocktails – regular and mock – small plate dishes curated by NYC restaurants and truly great service, it was reminiscent of an aero-era seemingly long gone. Grazie mille.
The Bed
The Hotel Tivoli Milano President in the heart of the city, is a five-minute stroll to Milano’s Duomo. There are 239 rooms and suites in this historic property that was fully renovated in October 2025.
Hospitable staff welcome guests at a massive marble front desk while the lounge has several modern art pieces. There’s also a Fitness & Wellness Center to work off Italy’s famous gelato. Besides, how does one not fall deeply in love with a hotel that has not one, but five types of gourmet candy near the guest relations desk? All in the heart of the city.
Staying in a lovely two-room suite with soaring ceilings, it boasted modern Italian design, furnishings, and fixtures. The granite-topped credenza had the all-important Lavazza coffee machine, kettle, and Disaronno liqueur and cookies.
Perched in the suite’s living room facing the floor-to-ceiling windows and the Duomo, the TechnoGym spinning bike complete with Gatorade meant there was zero excuse not to exercise away the many delicious meals.
The large bedroom had a deliriously comfortable king-sized bed with high-count cotton sheets, plush pillows accented by a Chianti-colored woven leather headboard, 60-inch flatscreen television, floor-to-ceiling windows, and black out curtains, all ensuring sweet slumber.
The bathroom boasted a granite dual vanity with carved in sink, walk-in shower with brilliantly engineered Hansgrohe 18-inch rain and standard shower heads, towel warmer, plush robes, makeup mirror, and environmentally sized Culti amenities.
As part of a wellness package, the hotel has Zerobody cryofloat for muscle pain reduction, faster recovery after training that promotes strong immune systems and Zerobody hydrofloat, which lowers cortisol, provides better heart rate variability, and promotes better sleep.
Though personally not a fan of ever being cold, after three minutes in the cryofloat, it was clearly working its magic. The hydrofloat was akin to a warm return to the womb, complete with mindful direction provided by headphones, but one can opt for music. After a long flight across the pond, this was truly renewal. If you are thinking of adding some stress relief to your home, you can pop into Starpool’s showroom nearby – that was part of Milano Design Week 2026 – and order your own.
Without doubt, Hotel Tivoli Milano President is a property you’ll want to return to, again and again, when travel takes you to Milan.
The Meals
The Tivoli’s Morning Room has a lovely breakfast, more like daily Sunday brunch, with salads, charcuterie, fresh fruits, bakery items, hot items, cappuccino bar, and made-to-order menu, including eggs Benedict, avocado toast, and griddle items.
For a unique dining experience that also delivers Milano’s highlights by night, reserve a dinner table on ATMosfera, a historic tram. With just 24 guests, affable staff serves a multi-course Italian meal, starting with sparkling wine, an eggplant amuse bouche, veal meatballs, pasta, chicken, and passion fruit ricotta dessert, all accompanied by fine Italian wines in a truly unique dining experience.
At Cantina della Vetra Chef Vincenzo Ventura provides traditional, excellent Milanese food in a casual neighborhood atmosphere. Ventura’s tender Osso Buco with creamy saffron risotto and delicious veal cutlet explains why this is a favorite restaurant among locals in-the-know. And if you love Tiramisu, but aren’t a huge rum fan, Ventura makes his with Grand Marnier and it’s marvelous. Walk off your meal along Via Torino with its multitude of shops, and of course gelato offerings.
Dinner at Tivoli’s Verzee Restaurant & Bistro Bar is accompanied by live music Tuesdays through Fridays. Try the excellent Roman-style artichoke with mint and basil, the Risotto Verzee, and spaghetti bolognese. The knowledgeable sommelier will make sure you’re perfectly paired for optimal enjoyment.
Those visiting after late August or early September will have the opportunity to try Tivoli’s newest restaurant, City Milano, headed by renowned Sicilian Chef Natale Giunta who will be using his talents with a creative sushi/Sicilian fusion menu.
For refined Italian cuisine like Amberjack tartar, artichoke salad, mouthwatering risotto Milanese with veal au jus, and swoon worthy eggplant parmigiana in a chic, upbeat atmosphere to dine well and people watch, a meal at Sant Ambroeus Milano, is the place. Founded in 1836, it’s a hub for creatives, business cognoscenti, and fashionable, beautiful people.
Of course, sometimes one is simply in dire need of great pizza and one of Italy’s finest contributions to humanity, gelato. Start at Sorbillo Pizzeria, where savvy locals go for great pizza, then head to Pavé Gelati & Granite where you’ll be so enthralled by the creamy texture, available flavors, and decadent taste, you’ll secretly wish your progeny included a cardiologist instead of an anesthesiologist.
The Finds
Though construction started on the Duomo in 1386, it wasn’t completed until 1963, nearly 600 years later. Walk the entire exterior to take in its magnitude. Inside make certain to see the sculpture by Marco d’Agrate with its extraordinary anatomical representation of the martyred St. Bartholomew.
Whether you are here during Fashion Week, here specifically to engage in retail therapy, or here any other time during the year, and even or especially if neither, strolling through Milan often requires pausing, as window displays, dressings, and even doorbell intercoms are art forms onto themselves.
Just beyond the Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II awaits with arched atrium ceilings, stone carvings, and contain high-end fashion houses of Prada, Fendi, Dior, and Gucci, all juxtaposed within eyeshot of McDonald’s. Nearby is the multi-level La Rinascente shopping mall. For fortification, hop into Camparino for a fabled Compari and soda, or upstairs to Pasticceria Marchesi – since 1824 – for coffee and gorgeous cakes in a lovely room of elegant olive green velvet banquettes.
Beyond that is the famous Opera House. Continue toward the chic Brera district to peruse small boutiques for engraved Buly brushes, design, and perfume shops, and high-end vintage shops.
More retail therapy can be found at the luxe shops of Via Monte Napoleone. At Bagatti Valsecchi there’s a museum upstairs and courtyard restaurant. It’s here where in the recently released “The Devil Wears Prada 2,” Donatella Versace sat in the restaurant impatiently waiting for Meryl Streep to get off the phone a few yards away.
The Pinacoteca de Brera Museum boasts a picturesque courtyard and possesses a vast collection of Italian Renaissance and Baroque art. Inside the nearby imposing landmark Castello Sforzesco are another six museums.
At Villa Necchi Campiglio, named after the owner who produced and distributed Necchi sewing machines, is a historic mansion built in the 1930’s in Italian Rationalist style with its architecture providing a glimpse into 20th-century style and design and plenty of Modigliani, Picasso, and Matisse pieces. Fans of the movie “House of Gucci,” will recognize this villa as the home of Rodolfo Gucci played by Jeremy Irons.
Just beyond the pool is a courtyard with a bar for cappuccino or an Illy Crema – Italy’s blessed, delectable creamy frozen coffee concoction with a kick.
The Lesson Learned
Scratching just below the surface in Milan one can easily see it’s no longer a city only for finance and business. Its heart remains untouched and inherently Italian, while its internal pulse has shifted to its rightful international palace. Balconies overflow with plants and trees and fully planted roof top bars and restaurants abound. Walking by a large private residence in the heart of the city, several flamingos were milling about the grounds, reminding one that magic can happen where one least expects it. Whatever brings you to Milan, whether finance, fashion, food, or culture, you’ll be so glad it did. Happy travels!
